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-   -   Coating suggestions (http://www.saltycajun.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7386)

B-Stealth 02-03-2010 11:00 PM

1st Alum boat was professionally sprayed with olive drag green rhino 8 years ago for $400 bucks and it still looks like new.

2nd. A company called Deck Liner thats no longer in business I made roll on liners specifically made for boats. It has a softer surface than the rhino liner. I rolled the inside of my 22 ft bay boat with 2 gallons, and really liked it. 2+ years and holding up great.

3rd Deck Liner again on my Sea-Ark; I used 1 gallon.The coating isnt as thick as the 1st boat but I only spent 100 bucks doing it. 1 1/2 year and doing good.

I would try to find a roll on paint specifically made for boats, because it will be softer.

Preperation for Alum Boat.
Pressure wash very well.
Scrub with paint thinner.
Prime, I used a spray can primer.
And apply 2-3 coats of liner.

Very important to lightly coat on 1st coat with liner, it helps it stick much better.

Good Luck.

SULPHITE 02-03-2010 11:04 PM

Quote:

did you try paint on the outside of the hull?
B stealth lined the inside of his hulls only

supercajun 02-03-2010 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn Braquet (Post 109865)
are you talking about herculiner? buddy used that in the bed of his truck and didnt seem to take a beating to well? He may have prepped it wrong though.

no its not hurculiner its another brand, cant think of the name. the trick is put your first coat on let dry, put second coat on and let dry to a tacky finish then take your brush dip in the liner then sling it on making lumps on the second coat. adds a lil texture to it. with any painting, prep is always more important than the actual painting. like anything there is a right way and wrong way to do it. usually the right way takes a little longer but in the end its worth it. plus if you do it halfass the first time it wont last long anyway and youll have to do it again. and once you paint a boat you dont want to do another one.

fishinpox 02-04-2010 12:03 AM

i have put sand in sealer when doin stained cement sidewalk at resturants where they need traction , it works ok but the sand is heavy and wants to settle to the bottom of the paint so you need to make sure you are always mixing it. paint stores also sell a product that is a powder that floats in the paint instead of sinking it is made for the non-skid application i would go with this product instead of sand next time i have to do this

speck-chaser 02-04-2010 12:07 AM

shark grit

southern151 02-04-2010 11:10 AM

Check on having the hull soda blasted. That's where they use baking soda instead of sand. The surface has to be VERY clean. You also need to use a self etching or epoxy primer on aluminum. It is vital for adhesion and duration of your topcoat.

BTW, $600 is dang cheap! If you take the time to do it right yourself, you will understand this completely!

I tell ya what, I don't know that I could do it for that price but, send me the dimensions on your boat and I'll see what I can come up with. I'd like to try one out! There's a lot that goes into making these finishes last.

LaAngler 02-04-2010 11:48 AM

1 Attachment(s)
yeah 600 is sounding cheaper and cheaper! lol

especially when i see 35 dollar a quart paint!

i really dont need this done until next fall (ok really never, lol)

but this looks cool

Montauk17 02-04-2010 03:04 PM

I have seen Ricky at camo designs work, I think its worth the money for a good paint job.

supercajun 02-04-2010 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaAngler (Post 109970)
yeah 600 is sounding cheaper and cheaper! lol

especially when i see 35 dollar a quart paint!

i really dont need this done until next fall (ok really never, lol)

but this looks cool

looking cool and being effective are two different things. cool looking paint jobs like that look good close up but back up 50 yards and all you see is a brown boat. a more broken up pattern with bigger paint schemes might not look like a factory job or as neat but work better.

LaAngler 02-09-2010 01:14 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i drew up this grass stencil, dunno looks okay i guess

SULPHITE 02-09-2010 01:16 PM

looks darn good to me! Nice work.

LaAngler 02-09-2010 01:18 PM

maybe i can add a few "punisher" or nazi zombie skulls in it also

SULPHITE 02-09-2010 01:22 PM

start your camo line...call it "agressive camo"!

LaAngler 02-09-2010 01:32 PM

1 Attachment(s)
PATENT pending this is "Mischevious Marshland"

OD green base coat, black skulls, and desert tan marsh grass

adamsfence 02-09-2010 01:56 PM

you gonna make some stencils?

SULPHITE 02-09-2010 02:47 PM

Quote:

PATENT pending this is "Mischevious Marshland"

OD green base coat, black skulls, and desert tan marsh grass
Please paint your boat with this...

meaux fishing 02-09-2010 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaAngler (Post 111940)
PATENT pending this is "Mischevious Marshland"

OD green base coat, black skulls, and desert tan marsh grass

that would be amazing.... Best paint job ever

B-Stealth 02-09-2010 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaAngler (Post 111936)
i drew up this grass stencil, dunno looks okay i guess

Wow, that would have required some adderal for sure. Looks Good.

Salty 02-09-2010 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaAngler (Post 111936)
i drew up this grass stencil, dunno looks okay i guess


Bruce, get to work.

Gerald 02-10-2010 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supercajun (Post 110184)
looking cool and being effective are two different things. cool looking paint jobs like that look good close up but back up 50 yards and all you see is a brown boat. a more broken up pattern with bigger paint schemes might not look like a factory job or as neat but work better.


Supercajun......said exactly what I was thinking. IMO, your "grass" pattern has too much detail. Leave out about half of the "grass" and make the remaining grass bigger.

Every time I walk passed the "Camo" hunting cloths at Acadamy, I shake my head. All I see are "Brown" or "Dark" color cloths......no pattern to them.


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