I don't know crap about AC units.....but I do know to get the best you can afford and don't skimp on original purchase. Rheem or Lennox are top notch and I purchased my hom ein 2004 which was built in 2001. Had a contractor model that lasted all of 8 years!
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Check with LCR Supply in Houma and possibly Coburns |
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Nothing to be scared of if you do it right ! Let me know if u decide to go job built route n I can set you up with someone good
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Pox, do you use the epoxy grout with the mold and mildew resistance, and self sealing. I used the epoxy grout on mine, it cost a lot more than the regular grout and my guy charged me more to use it, but its been 3 years and still no mildew with minimal cleaning with a little vinegar and water. |
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Got the AC, electrical, and plumbing roughed in and the roof on. Got insulation and sheetrock this week. Floors and brick next week. Front door is being built in Alabama and was supposed to be in last week.
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I wanna see a picture of the "car porch"!
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We have to pick out our stain for our cabinets. Cabinet guy sent us to Sherman Williams and they were really not much help. They had samples of all colors on all woods except cypress. All they told us was if we picked one of those colors there is a chance the finished product could turn out different. Any suggestions on other brands?
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I suggest you go to the Cabinet maker [or find a lumber yard that has your type cypress] and get a small piece [or several pieces] of the wood used for your cabinets. Take this wood to the paint dealer and tell them you would like to test some of the stains to see which one you like. Dip a cloth into the stain to get a small part "wet". Rub the cloth on the wood to smooth out the stain on a small area. Repeat with different stains...leaving a small space between the "test" spots. Mark the wood with numbers like 1, 2, 3, 4. and write down [on some paper] which stain you used for #1, # 2 etc. After the stain dries, it will look a little different. OR...... Buy 2 small cans of the stains that you are considering to use. Take the stains to the cabinet maker and do the "testing" at his shop. If the cabinet maker is planning to put some type of "finish" after the stain is applied.......you need to also put the "finish" on your samples because the "finish" will make it look different than just the stain. You may want to try different "finishes" on your sample stains to see which you like best. Also......the final outcome [how it looks when finished] depends on how much stain is applied to the wood. Usually the heavier you apply the stain.....the darker the wood will look. If you put a light amount of stain on the wood.....and like it that way, the cabinet maker might put more on the wood and it could be much darker. Or vise versa. It might be a good idea to talk with the cabinet maker about this and give him your test sample of wood and tell him to "try" and make it look like this. |
Minn-Wax products are hard to beat. Like Gerald said...you gotta do samples of your own with the actual wood. Not all cypress is the same. Even on softer woods.....the tighter the grain, the lighter the stain because it gets less penetration. DO NOT use the store samples as guidance. You are sure to be disappointed.
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When I had limited amount of stains left in a can, and what I had just did not come out looking right on my test wood.....I often mixed my stains to make it look a little different. I like using just Tongue oil as a finish on something that will not be used all the time. Or something like Deft (sp) is a easy finish to apply. |
I would get cabinet shop to give you a pc of the same wood and have your painter do the samples the same way he is gonna stain your cabinets . Unless its old cypress , new cypress is very soft and absorbent so they generally turn out much darker than say oak . I'd use a conditioner as well
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Good point. :rolleyes::cool:;) |
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