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rambler 03-03-2011 11:39 AM

New Boat Trailer Prices???
 
I'm looking at a new trailer for my 21 kenner and so far I've gotten 2 prices in the $3,000 range for both aluminum and galvanized...

I guess its been a while since I shopped for trailers but is $3k the norm??? :confused:

Dink 03-03-2011 11:45 AM

Sounds cheap to me! Single or double axle?

rambler 03-03-2011 11:47 AM

tandem
 
tandem axle...and i'd prefer galvanized...

that sounds cheap? dang, i haven't been paying attention.

specktator 03-03-2011 11:51 AM

I priced a new trailer for $4000 tandem axel for a 20' whaler. I ended up getting a used trailer for half that.

meaux fishing 03-03-2011 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rambler (Post 231908)
tandem axle...and i'd prefer galvanized...

that sounds cheap? dang, i haven't been paying attention.

why?

meaux fishing 03-03-2011 11:57 AM

I have a Ace Trailer (aluminum) and have had no problems... It is all bolted with stainless steel hardware and torsion bar suspension. doesnt even feel like im pulling a trailer sometimes

rambler 03-03-2011 12:01 PM

i thought galvanized would be cheaper
 
why? i (mistakenly) thought galvanized would be cheaper.

rambler 03-03-2011 12:02 PM

used?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by specktator (Post 231909)
I priced a new trailer for $4000 tandem axel for a 20' whaler. I ended up getting a used trailer for half that.

where?

specktator 03-03-2011 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rambler (Post 231915)
where?

My dad's partner had a tandem axel trailer for his 25' grady white. He bought a tri-axel and sold me his. And I modified it to fit my boat. Got about 6' of trailer before my boat starts but it's fine.

meaux fishing 03-03-2011 12:11 PM

I picked mine up for under $2k from The Boat Yard in Marrero. Its a single axle and I got a 19ft Kenner on it. Kinda a long haul for you but you might call and get a price anyway

specktator 03-03-2011 12:19 PM

The Boat Yard is the best place to find a used trailer.

rambler 03-03-2011 12:53 PM

driving a ways to save thousands
 
saving ~$1k is well worth driving for...i'm going to call them.

thanks for all the replies.

Jordan 03-03-2011 01:04 PM

whats wrong with your current trailer.... might be cheaper to fix ??

Dink 03-03-2011 01:08 PM

Have any of you seen the new rubber block suspension systems? I've only heard about it, but sounds cool!! No more springs to rust

rambler 03-03-2011 01:32 PM

mainly its just old
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan (Post 231928)
whats wrong with your current trailer.... might be cheaper to fix ??

its got a little rust here and there so i'll probably let a shop do a weld overlay on the affected spots - and i'm just afraid this is the beginning of the end and so i was pricing trailers.

Jordan 03-03-2011 02:02 PM

i think they sell some sort of galvenized stuff in a can that you roll on????? That would be easier than buying $2,000 trailer... .my $0.02

Salty 03-03-2011 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by specktator (Post 231916)
My dad's partner had a tandem axel trailer for his 25' grady white. He bought a tri-axel and sold me his. And I modified it to fit my boat. Got about 6' of trailer before my boat starts but it's fine.

Just enough room for a removable t-top.

rambler 03-04-2011 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan (Post 231941)
i think they sell some sort of galvenized stuff in a can that you roll on????? That would be easier than buying $2,000 trailer... .my $0.02

I'm not talking about surface rust - I'd be ok if it was that simple...the spot that's got me concerned is rusted through and will need to be overlaid with some plate.

specktator 03-04-2011 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salty (Post 231996)
Just enough room for a removable t-top.

:*****::*****:

Duck Butter 03-04-2011 02:59 PM

I am going thru the same dilemna myself. This saltwater is eating away at my metal trailer. I was thinking of getting a used galvanized or possibly aluminum? But, never heard of this galvanizing stuff you roll on? What does it turn out like?

Pat Babaz 03-04-2011 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duck Butter (Post 232168)
I am going thru the same dilemna myself. This saltwater is eating away at my metal trailer. I was thinking of getting a used galvanized or possibly aluminum? But, never heard of this galvanizing stuff you roll on? What does it turn out like?

I think he's talking about cold galvanizing compound. It comes in spray cans or regular paint cans. Its usually a grey color and it protects metal against rust. Sand the rusty areas real good with a wire brush, put a coat of rust inhibitor on it, let it sit for a few hours, then spray on about 4 coats of cold galvanized. It will stop rust and prevent against saltwater corrosion.

Duck Butter 03-04-2011 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat Babaz (Post 232186)
I think he's talking about cold galvanizing compound. It comes in spray cans or regular paint cans. Its usually a grey color and it protects metal against rust. Sand the rusty areas real good with a wire brush, put a coat of rust inhibitor on it, let it sit for a few hours, then spray on about 4 coats of cold galvanized. It will stop rust and prevent against saltwater corrosion.

Does it look worth a flip?

Pat Babaz 03-04-2011 05:13 PM

Its pretty much the color of galvanized metal, but you can tell the trailer has been painted with it. It looks pretty good if you paint it on smooth and even.

Gerald 03-04-2011 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat Babaz (Post 232186)
I think he's talking about cold galvanizing compound. It comes in spray cans or regular paint cans. Its usually a grey color and it protects metal against rust. Sand the rusty areas real good with a wire brush, put a coat of rust inhibitor on it, let it sit for a few hours, then spray on about 4 coats of cold galvanized. It will stop rust and prevent against saltwater corrosion.


Once salt has gotten into the metal......it is too late to do anything.

You can sand blast until you think you are looking at good metal and then paint with the best stuff.......then in a couple of months it will start showing the rust again. I worked in a salt plant and nothing will protect the metal....once salt gets into the metal.

Galvanized metal last a long time in a salt environment, unless the "galvanized" coating gets chipped off.

I made some wheel fenders with galvanized metal about 6 years ago. I cleaned up the welds and where metal had been cut real good and sprayed with Cold Galvanized paint. The fenders still look just like when I installed them.

ScubaLatt 03-06-2011 11:39 PM

Trailer problems
 
:pissed:Having the same problem here. I bought my bay boat in 2005 right between "THE" 2 storms. The trailer was advertised as painted galvanized. Well they failed to use galvanized harware so now all my bolts are rusted. The fenders are coming off. Trying to decide if it is worth spening a lot of money or just buying a new one and starting over.

catchandkill 03-10-2011 11:49 PM

Unless you have have the time to rerig everything with stainless, which will hafta be oversized because it is relatively soft, I would consider buyin an aluminum trailer. I have owned both and think the aluminum is bettter, again, just my personal preference and 2 cents.

jimdecoy 03-11-2011 01:27 AM

There are some good products on the make to help combat rust. The best for the money are classed as rust converters. 2 name brands are Core Seal & EN-rust. It’s a base coat for raw steel that works great. Just clean the rusted area up best you can by chipping any flake layers and finish up with a wire wheel on a small angle grinder. Apply at least 2 coats of this product and use a galvanized top coat; I like the cold galvanized spray.
After owning and running offshore trawl boats over 10 years and another 10 years on oilfield vessels I tried just about every product on the market to combat rust. Rust converters best way to go.

Gerald 03-11-2011 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimdecoy (Post 233657)
There are some good products on the make to help combat rust. The best for the money are classed as rust converters. 2 name brands are Core Seal & EN-rust. It’s a base coat for raw steel that works great. Just clean the rusted area up best you can by chipping any flake layers and finish up with a wire wheel on a small angle grinder. Apply at least 2 coats of this product and use a galvanized top coat; I like the cold galvanized spray.
After owning and running offshore trawl boats over 10 years and another 10 years on oilfield vessels I tried just about every product on the market to combat rust. Rust converters best way to go.


After you "paint" the rusty metal this way...... how long does it stay looking good?

jimdecoy 03-12-2011 05:03 AM

When done properly I’ve seen this last for years in an offshore environment. As long as you get the metal fairly clean and a good coat of converter, at least 2 applications with a brush and a good top coat to seal it in it will last.


If you have a piece of tubing or something that has rusted all the way through and you can only properly treat the outside it is almost impossible to stop the rust bleeding. At this point the structural integrity of the trailer is most likely jeopardized and I would just replace the wasted steel.


Back to the original topic, yes new boat trailers are outrageously priced. I’m shopping to put together a new mid-range package, 17’x60” aluminum w/ a 60 four stroke, and the trailers for this rig are around 1800 bucks. You can buy a new 16’ double axle lowboy trailer for what they are getting for is little galvanized boat trailer.


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