Is my outboard mounted too low?
 

how's my motor look ? how far below the boat is the skeg supposed to extend? can my motor be raised? it seems like i have the holes to go up but not enough transom?..any feedback would be appreciated

btw motor is not all the way down, it is trimmed a lil to clear pavement
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMAG0102.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMAG0101.jpg

Hard to tell withou it trimmed all the way down, your cavitation plate should not be below the bottom of the boat though, in most instances it'll run better an in above the bottom due to less drag...just my .02

from what i've read around, most boats coming from dealers usually come mounted on the 3rd hole down.i know not all boats are the same, but im wondering if i can benefit from proper mounting if need be.plus i kinda feel like the boat isn't performing like it should. Boat is *** heavy and thats not good for a vhull in these areas.

I think mine might be to low to, but i think im about to get a jack plate and solve dat

ding ding we have a winner, easily adjustable if you get the manual ones and even easier with the hydro ones

I want a hydro one but they proud of them dudes, wanting a new boat so kinda need to stop dumping money into this one

I was always told the cavitation plate should be even with the bottom of the boat or no more than a 1/2" above it . But I'm sure this isnt always true depending on the particular setup. A jackplate will definately give you more adjustment options.

What if you have a semi tunnel? Should it be even with the top of the tunnel or still even with the bottom? Thats what i cant figure out on mine

With the tunnel. At least thats how mine was setup. Thats when a hyd jackplate would help to find out whats best for your setup.

I need to call the dealership and see what they think . . . .

Level out ur boat as best as u can, trim ur motor down till it is strait up and down (shouldn't be all the way trim down ). The bottom if ur boat should split the holes on the water intake !

Thats going to be pretty hard considsring its holding 62 gallong gas...think If I hitch it to the truck it should level it

That's with a semi tunnel or straight transom?

Kade yours needs to be level or slightly higher than the bottom of the tunnel, the offset of your transom can have a lot to do with it also

still not all the way down, that pic was with almost empty tank, it seems below the keel ..right?
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...065737-1-1.jpg

Well I'll let you bring me them peppers and we will take a look at it, I have a payment plan for you I think you will like

Sounds like a plan

Strait !

On my alumaweld I've got the cavitation plate around 1.5 inch above the bottom of the boat. I set it by raising the motor about three inches high. I ran it and if the prop cavitated taking off or in a turn I dropped it 1/4 of an inch. I repeated this until it didn't cavitate. It takes some time, but this way you get the max height out of the motor and prop. It's best to do it with the normal load in the boat.

or get a ****in jackplate lol thats what i need to do

Mine looked similar with no problems.

I've seen a marsh rig that had a jack plate with 12" set back off the transom and he was able to put the cavitation plate 4" above the bottom of the boat, this was a flat bottom aluminum though. What Scott Craft said is the way to perfect it with a manual jack plate. Putting it level with the bottom of the boat will get you better performance without cavitation usually.

Your motor is too low for sure. Without a jackplate your cav plate needs to be even with the bottom of the boat when trimmed level. With jack plate you can run it higher....the farther the motor is away from the transom the higher the angle of the water coming off the bottom of the boat. I would pick it up two bolt holes and see how it runs.

i even wonder if jackplates are even possible with euro transoms

On your style of hull with a jack plate,that is right on the money. You have a semi pad bottom....a hull without the semi pad has to run the motor lower.

http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMAG0109.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMAG0108.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMAG0107.jpg

lowered the trailer and didnt have a straight edge but..

That looks pretty good, next step would be jack-plate

See that pin with the 6 holes for adjustment. You need to move that pin down to the hole closest to the transom. That will help you on the bow lift. It will let you trim down further.

ok, and is there a special way? trim up ? or will i need a hoist?

Actually scratch that. Take that pin out. Trim your motor all the way down and see if it hits the transom before stoping. If it dosent leave it out. That's your bow lift problem right there that pin needs to come out.

No u don't need a hoist just trim the motor up should be like a spring latch on one end I'm not real sure on the evinrudes how they are made.

exactly. My Uncle's Bullet was doing this when he got it back from the shop, they put a pin in there. He took it out and had no problems since.

so this will allow me to "tuck"the motor in more, bringing it cloer to the transom when trimmed fully down?

Yes sir. Will be night and day

Thank you sir..hopefully its quick release...may be taking her out with the fam tomorrow

take her out monday. We'll be in the same area.

Monday got school

dang. well we'll put up a report....

dang....just checked out the boat and my bilge aint working....flip the switch nothing...checked fuses...everything ok...

what should i look forhttp://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...619_081559.jpg

if you have a volt meter, check for voltage at the pump, if you gots you some volts time for a new pump

Did you use a volt meter and check to see if you were getting 12 volts on each side of the fuses? Check voltage until you find where the problem is located.

Shawn.....we were typing at the same time.

get a test light see if you have fire at the bilge (if u do motor may be bad) if you dont check the ground wire, then try again c if it works. ground wire needs to be grounded good.

This is coming from a guy who has no patientince so I had to set his motor.

Gonna check it once fathers day calms down thanks for the input

did you figure out how to take that pin out?

man, truthfully, between boiling crawfish, and trying to figure out what's wrong witht the bilge, i never even got to look at it. not too mention the scorcher today.ill have a look after class tomorrow.

which I had to reset agin:eek:

Because you had your prop worked on.

no because I had to change my exhaust do to your awsome merc mechanic that cant even get your motor fixed:p

If and when I do we will see about my mechanic.