Steering for 90 yamaha
 

As some of you know, Bohunterbiff is having an issue with the steering on his 18' express. The steering is locked up to the left and will not budge. It currently has a rotary steering system on it. Does anyone know how hard it is to replace this with the same system ?? Best i can explain the problems is that there is a sleeve that connects the motor to the transom mounts. There is a rod inside that sleeve that connects a bar to the motor. That bar is "stuck" in the sleeve. Is this bar supposed to expand and come out of the sleeve ?? Im trying to help him keep his boat out of the shop. He has ordered a newer "upgraded" rotary steer. Does anyone have any schematics on how this steering system works and can help a brotha out ??


Montauk, where ya at bruh ?

Did yall try taking the steering tube out of the swivel pin bracket on the engine? Alot of times it will get caked up with grease and harden. Some times you can get lucky and take cable out and run a big enough drill bit and/or wire brush inside the swivel pin bracket and put the cable back in with plenty of pb blaster or wd-40. DO NOT use grease it will cause more harm than good.

attached a pic of what im trying to talk about

the piece with a hole in it is stuck in the sleeve..... the rod slides when i pull out and push in, the steering wheel turns freely.

The steering wheel should not turn freely unless you disconneted the tie bar.

BTW yamaha does not make steering cables,the cable in the pic is a shift/throttle cable. Give me a ring if you need more help

This is what the cable looks like...

http://www.marineengine.com/products...s/3464840C.jpg

ok, well when i D/C the end with the nut and pull out, the wheel turns, i push it back in, the wheel turns. The end where the hole is at is stuck in the sleeve.

Spray the hell out of it with pb blaster and let it soak overnight. Sometimes you have to get ugly with it and hit it with a big punch and hammer while someone pulls from the other side.

Where is the boat located ?

DeRidder........

Ryan, i hooked up a ratchet strap to it and to a tree, every time i would ratchet it, it would drag the trailer closer to the tree. We hit it with PB blaster. Do i spray that stuff inside the sleeve ??? That "eye" is wedged in there pretty tight.

Ryan, does the rod come out ??? When i would pull the rod out of the sleeve, it would stop about 10" or so out of the sleeve.

LOL would have liked to see the ratchet strap with the tree. Yes spray inside the tube. Don't be scared,use the whole can if you have to. Is the cable in a bind? On some boats I had to take the motor off the transom to get the cable out of a bind so the cable comes out straight.

not in a bind. The cable and rod slide smoothly. Its the other side (left side as your looking at motor from rear).

It was a hoot to do that, need to bring the come-along over and re-try it. I ended up cutting a 1" gash in the top of my thumb. Look at the bass i was holding in this post---http://www.saltycajun.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22380&highlight=twin... Thats what happened when I let the pressure off the ratchet strap.

If you got a new cable ,take a sawzall and cut the old one off so you can work on it easier. Sounds like its time for the punch and hammer.

Wish you didn't live so far or I would give you a hand. Did yall hit it with a big punch and hammer?

Jodan..... is this what the stearing rod looks like? Can you take some picture so we can see what you are doing.

not yet...... Do i take the rod out of the sleeve ?? If so, how ?? Then stick a punch through the sleeve and knock the other piece out ?? It is all one piece, or did it break inside the sleeve ?? Was thinking about pulling the motor, taking the sleeve out of it and working on it.

a better understanding !!

My rod needed a little help to get it out.

.

Robert ordered a cable. I have a sawzall... Just saw it off and nail it with a hammer, huh ?? Seems easy.....:beathorse:

Both parts you circled come out. Its time for the hammer and punch.

Yeah, there must be a housing, a sleeve and a rod..... No sleeve comes out of the housing with the rod. Just the rod comes out.

The sleeve is not part of the steering cable,the new cable does not come with a new sleeve. Time to get nasty with it and beat it with a hammer and punch.

Saw it off where the big nut is on he cable itself. Then get a long rod or punch and knock the rod out of the tube on the motor. Looking at the rear of the motor it should come out the right side.So stick your punch in the left side and let her have it.

What is the part that connects the motor to the transom ??? It has a nut on one end that tightens up against the transom mounts.

One end threads on the transom bracket,the other end with the hole connects to the swivel pin with the tie rod and nut. The sleeve stays inside the transom brackets.

That is what the motor tilts up and down on .dont remove it or the nuts on each side. THe steering rod slides inside that tube.

The first time I had to work on the stearing rod was 5 or 6 years ago. Boat stearing was very hard when turning the stearing wheel.

The "pipe" on the engine that the stearing rod goes through was full of rust. This pipe & rod is not made to be greased.....ie.... no way to inject grease. I had to beat the stearing rod to get it out. Then I cleaned out as much rust as I could get out. I greased it up really good and put it back together. This worked good for several years until the stearing rod got bent from hitting too many logs going too fast.

ok, im getting a better understanding of this. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll take some pics this evening and show ya'll whats happening if i cant get it.


One other question. Can i take and knock the rod/sleeve back through the tube on which the motor pivots ?? Hit it with a hammer and a punch and push it back through and clean the tube and re-grease and reinstall ??

The new one should just slide rite in .Make sure you clean insidde tube thouroly. NO BEATING REQUIRED ON NEW ONE.


Excuse the spelling I fished with "W" last week....lol

lol

LOL good advise on not beating in the new one! Grease causes more harm than good over time. It will harden and make it hard to steer. This is the lube I use when I change steering cables. http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...ID=1006&r=view

What about neverseize and marine grease ???

I prefer not to use any kind of grease. If you have any type of marine business in your area ask them if they have any proprietary synthetic oil. Royal purple makes one in a spray can too.

Thats a bad word ....

thats what i've heard from a few different people. Im just trying to help my friend out and get this to last longer than 4 years.

I think the motor was man. in '07

Anyone have a good suggestion on how best to clean out inside the tube to get the rust out?

Is there some kind of small wire brush or sanding disk to attach to a drill that will fit "Just right" to clean it out good.

I under stand that there is a special nut with grease zert that can be installed on the other end of the stearing rod. I went to West Marine but they did not have them. I never went to a boat dealer.

I also use a silicone spray on mine. Just spray after each trip. Turn motor all the way to one side so ou can spray the whole rod.

Gerald, i heard that a 12 gauge shotgun wire attachment out of a cleaning kit fits perfect. Going to try it this evening if i can get it out.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...ID=1006&r=view

To clean the tube I use a wire brush bit on a cordless drill with plenty of pb blaster.

shoot me your number and i'll call you this evening

I use a 12 cleaning brush on an old cleaning rod .Put the rod in a drill and get after it. There is a lube nut but i cant remember the name of it .

Silicone spray works too,but like you said it you need to spray it often. The lube made for steering is very tacky and stays in the tube longer.

how does that work Ryan ?? That nut replaces what ?? The tube connects to the nut and the bottle of lube and it greases the inside of the rod/tube how ??

It threads on the steering tube on the side with the tie rod. It has a o ring inside that seals it off and you squirt the lube inside the tube with the attachment hose. The nut with the zert does not replace anything,it is only used to lube the cable. After you lube it you take the nut off and put your tie rod back on and your done....smooth as silk.

gotchya !!! Thats what i was calling you about the other night when you were babysitting....

Oh ok....my bad I forgot to call you back. That lil girl kept me up all night with all the thunder and lightning!

Would this be similar to "oil filled" wheel bearing? You fill up the tube with this the Overton oil stuff.

To be honest with you I have never worked on the new style oil bath hubs. I will have to check into that....