metal building workshop/mancave
 

Me and the wife got approved for a house loan. So fixen to start looking for a place. I noticed that metal buildings are fairly cheap. Without the concrete slab.just wondering if you guys have any metal buildings and what size. Whats it used for? Im thinking a 20x40.i just wanna be able to fit one car in it. Im thinking of walling it half way so I'll have a 20x 20 garage/workshop and a 20x20 mancave. Are they pretty easy to insulate? Doesnt have to be very efficient just wanna keep noise down. If you have one can you post a picture. Also thinking of having a 12' leanto. It will be.nice to clean fish in the shade....

Get the biggest you can afford and spend the extra $ to get it insulated...you'll thank me later.....triple V in Oklahoma has the best prices that I have found.

If you think 20 x 40 will work, go 40 x 60. Mine is 60 x60 and fills up quick.

Mines 40x50, i wish i would of gone taller. I have 12ft eaves. Wish i would of gone 16ft. And they do fill up quick!

And put as many of the biggest doors you can afford. Ive got so much junk in mine its hard to get stuff out. I need to build a loft in mine for more storage

My good friend has a building 20x40 with 16' eve.


He has a 14x20 Mancave built into the back. The top of is is storage he has a staircase going to the top.

The remaining 26x20 is where he keeps his boat and all his wood working tools.

Only thing insulated it the man cave and he has 12,000 BTU AC to cool it off which works fine. Drank many o blue pops in the building

Keep this in mind: You cannot finance the cost of the building into your house loan unless the total appraisal is less than or equal to the entire cost of the house plus the building. My friend build a nice shop and when the appraisal came back the cost of his house plus his shop was more than the appraisal. He had to take a 2nd loan on the shop and use some of his down payment money to cover the cost. Doing so then put his loan to value ratio over 80% so he then had to have PMI coverage for an extra $135 per month on top of his house note. Check with your lender before you do anything like this!

Well i was actually planning to pay for it out of pocket. Honestly though i dont plan on filling it up with much stuff. I dont plan on parking the truck or boat in it regularely. Just wanna be able to pull it in if i need it. But i pretty much had the same idea for loft storage. Im gonna look more into the sizes and see what i can do

Famous last words of a fool:smokin:, it won't matter how big you build because it still won't be big enuff. Build something bigger then you need because you WILL fill it up quickly. I am building a house right now with a 15x26 storage on my garage and already have plans for a 28x30 cover behind my house and I still know I won't have enuff storage or covered area.

I have a 30x40 with 12' eave height and it has an 8' roll up door and a 10' roll up door. I added a 24' section on the back of it to park my boat and camper under (14' for the camper and 10' for the boat). I think the size is pretty good. I wish I had insulated it from the beginning because it is pretty loud when it's raining. Other than that I am very happy with my shop.

Here is a picture of the original construction (I poured the slab myself to save money)

And the 2nd picture is the only one I could find of the addition I added on the back side... Picture was taken during a downpour :rotfl:

I still plan to put another culvert and driveway for the camper and boat but I just havent done it yet...

You didn't build your shed on a slab?

I got a 24 x 30 insulated and I spend more time in it than I do in the house. I keep my boat, 4 wheeler and all my toys. Oh and a beer cooler and radio! The wife and I have a deal, I keep my stuff out "her" garage and she stays out my shed. I got big shelves hanging from the metal rafters and resting on the top pearling for storing ice chests and stuff just to keep junk off the floor. You'll never regret building it.

Whatever size you build, insulate the whole thing. You will regret it, if you don't! My first shop only had the roof insulated and, the walls sweat so bad and the heat/cold is 3X's as bad as my new shop that is fully insulated.

Well i was just looking at a build of a 30x40. And i think that's the size im gonna go with. The guy built him an office in the corner and it looks pretty sweet. I plan on parking my boat umder the leanto on the side to keep the inside as empty and clutter free as possible. This guy already had the building and just framed the inside with 2x4's then covered with plywood. All he insulated was his office. So to insulate it would you just put the insulation between the metal and plywood?
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...dy/picture.jpg
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I wouldn't put smaller than 10' wide doors and if possible put 12'. Which direction do you plan to build it, remember that if you buy a bigger boat you will have to figure in total length from hitch to motor so you way want doors in the 24' end and then make your awning 12-15'x30'

My doors are 12x 12 and 12h x 14w. I put sliding doors cause the were cheap to build but it sucks in the winter time.

30'wide and 40'deep and ill have an area 12'x40' covered outside. probably go with a 12' wide door on the front and a regular door beside it. Havent decided if im gonna want a door to go from the enclosed room im gonna build in it to the outside or not.

Would be a good idea to have a door or big window incase shop caught fire or you just need an escape out of office

Pole Barns are typically built prior to pouring the slab so the Poles can be cabled together for support. Usually the contractor puts all the framework up, pours the slab, and then installs the walls... Since I did my own slab, I had them complete their work prior to me pouring the slab.... Saved me about $3000 on the total cost of the building.

Here is a picture of the slab after poured... It has the fiber in the concrete so that's what all the little things are on top of the concrete ;)

I am in the process of selecting a metal building to serve as a camp. I have only contacted metal mart for pricing. I'm in BR....Materials need to go to Mississippi. Was looking at a 20X60 and do exactly what i see here. Initial estimate I have is 11k for materials...I plan to erect myself...Then wall up the interior as I see in the picture. Does this sound about right? should I contact someone else? I have acccess to scissor lifts and all of the tools and manpower I would need...I was thinking of pouring slab first with all of the plumbing in place. Am I going about this the wrong way? What purpose does the fiber in the concrete serve? Just curious...Your project looks exactly like what I am looking to do...no roll up doors, just two normal exterior doors, large bay window and other small bedroom windows and such....Just need to get the structure up and work from there....

Would be interested in seeing more pictures of your project as well, if possible. Not sure the difference between the pole barn and the building I am looking at...I was told that the threaded rods would be installed when we poured our slab....The pole barn type may be a better option for me based one what I learn about it.

I see a WOMAN in there! :rotfl:

Frank Buck, contact Simplepeddler on here. He has family in Pumpkin Center (I think) that is in this business. Not sure what they could do for you but, it never hurts to check em out.

I built a 30X40 with a 25X40 lean to. I wish I would have listened to several friends advice and insulate it. Also a second roll up door so you could get a breeze!! Wish I would have went bigger to.

I sell metal buildings to contractors and individuals for a metal building manufacturer. I've sold them for the last 12 years, anything from backyard shops to big commercial and warehouse buildings to everything in between. Be careful dealing with the internet companies and building brokers, those you hear advertised on the radio and see advertised in the back of magazines. They will shoot you a low price but it is never the correct building code or wind loading for your area. Also the prices they advertise are strictly FOB at the plant, where ever that may be. Check out the MBMA website (http://www.mbma.com/) and use one of the companies listed there. They are audited yearly in every facet of design and manufacturing and have standards to uphold.
Do not try to pour your own concrete or erect the building if you purchase one. In most areas of the state you are required to permit these buildings and don't let anyone tell you differently. Spend the money getting the slab correct to begin with and do not skimp on this. The two worst things I hear when I sell these to individuals are, "I have a buddy that owes me a favor and is going to do the slab for me one week-end" or "I'm doing it myself". I can just about guarantee you the slab will be out of square and there is nothing that will screw your erector up more than a messed up slab. These buildings are made to be plumb and square to bolt together. There is no slack in the buildings to cover out of square. You start talking about field modification then (cutting and welding to cover the screw-ups).
Erecting the building takes specialized tools to do correctly and also experience reading erection drawings and knowing how components are piece marked. You also need heavy equipment to unload and handle the components. The building is steel and nothing is light like on a wooden structure.
After a building is up, then a do-it-yourselfer can finish out the interior any way he wants. You basically have to frame all the walls up where you want them and put whatever electrical and finishes you desire. Note that if you put any plumbing in you have to do this before the slab is poured, needing some kind of plumbing know how.
In short, stick to a reputable manufacturer, pay attention to the concrete and erection, and you definitely can finish the inside like you want if your skills are up to the challenge.
One last note, the value in these buildings are in the 30' x 40' x 12' and 40' X 50' X 12' sizes for home use. 20' wide buildings are expensive for what you get.
Send me a PM for any additional way I can help you.

The pole barn type building is wood frame vs. metal framed. The pole barn that I did was 30x40 (most trusses are manufactured 30' so they are the most economical) with 12' eave height. On a metal building you pour the slab first and then erect the building per the previous post. On a pole barn the framework is put 3' in the ground, the posts are then anchored to each other with aircraft grade cable, and the slab is poured with the cables encased in the concrete. The building is all tied in with the slab by way of the posts. My building is wind certified at 120mph. My building cost was approximately $10,700 erected and I spent another $2000 on the concrete. The building price with the slab was about $15,900 so I saved about $3200 pouring the slab myself.

The addition that I put on the back of mine was very easy to do because I just went back to the place i bought it and bought 5 extra trusses from them for $100/per... Me, my dad, and my brother were able to install these trusses by ourself with not too much trouble. Then we just roofed it out with the metal to match the original building. Hope this helps!

I put up 2 metal buildings its not very hard to do if you have any consteuction background.

consteuction?? WHAT DAT MEAN?

I've helped errect several buildings over the years. The kit buildings are a lot easier, but you can get yourself in a bind if your not good with a ruler, reading directions, or don't know what plumb means!!!

My house is a 33'x42' metal building 12' eaves with a 25'x42' porch hanging off the back. Extremely energy effecient, but not too noise proof. I can hear cars drive past and I'm almost 800' off the road. I have the building insulated, a 8" air space before my stud wall, and the stud walls insulated (roof and ceiling as well). If I had to do it over, I would probably have the foam insulation sprayed in and a 4 on 12 pitch instead of the 2 on 12. Like everybody said... GO BIGGER!! I have my whole porch, a 12'x21' shed, and a 2 stall barn packed with crap! We are talking about adding on to the house, but I can't figure out the best way to do a hip joint into an existing metal roof that won't leak (any advise appreciated). I would post pics, but my landscapping sucks and as I said earlier, my porch is packed with crap!!

YOU NEED TO CHECK WITH BERGERONS METAL BUILDERS OUT OF SCOTT. I HAD A 40x50 WITH 16' EAVES BUILT BY THEM. PRICE IS HARD TO BEAT. (337)288-9067

HI Guys.. I thinking about a 40WX60LX16h.. I want to finish out about 1400-1500 sq ft. for me to live in..

Anyone has this type I possible could see to give me a few ideas?? Also looking for a acre of land in the Abbeville, LA...

I want a mud, shower, freezer room combo.. Combo Living & Kitchen... And Nice master bedroom with Large bathroom.. Large 2-3 person Shower and tub combo for all them nights with the SINGLE Ladys?? If ya'll can FEEL Me..... LOl......Then a nice spare bedroom.. I'd want just stained concrete flrs, in Combo K & L rm.. Probably laminate in bedrooms??? Then unfinished shop for 24' triton and all my Stuff???

Thks,

Gunner

My house is the same size you want but 12'h... I did 40'x40' living and the additional 20' is a shop.. 2 bed/2 bath, W/ stained concrete floors everything is nice and roomy... Def advise on this

When I built mine, I didnt consider the fact that I couldnt drive into my backyard because of the lack of gates and room........oops!! Now its just a place to hang out with friends

My cousin has "All Metal" in Pumpkin Center..Lance is a good man. he can get you "kit" buildings but mainly specializes in the metal cut to order.

advice
 

I am very experienced with metal buildings and have made and seen many mistakes from friends and myself, just finished my second dream shop, first one a pole barn, lasted 18 years-posts rotted at ground- destroyed it and went bigger with an new one. ALL these guys are right, go big, insulate,put shelf loft now-junk will come, i was about to make a big mistake in my plans, had plans for two roll up doors to let air flow in, friend that priced my building recommended that each door is $900.00 just put one and spend $800.00 on big window unit- duhh. best change i made have 30x40 insulated with 25,000 btu w/heat-cool, works great! do not put fiber concrete flakes its whole life and is not smooth-seen many.I you can afford let the pros do it or buy a metal kit- do not use wood, go big now-will cost double for add ons later, hope this helps.

Just a note on this post... most of the pole barns built now use Post Protectors and skirt board protectors so that everything wooden that has contact with the ground is completely wrapped in plastic. My building is all made with treated lumber and has a 50 year warranty.

I've had my building for almost 5 years now and I still see a little of the fiber when I sweep up but it is considerably less than when it was first poured... I wouldnt be too concerned about the fiber concrete if you want a shop... if you want a living space with finished floors then I would avoid the fiber concrete.

You can see in the picture below what Im referring to... This picture was taken prior to me pouring the slab.