Which 40 hp?
 

Currently have a 27 hp Pro Drive on a 1648 and we really do not need the mudmotor. Going to get rid of it and go with a 40 hp 4 stroke and a jackplate.

I have a 25 Yamaha 4 stroke and its a very good engine, any other pros/cons of other makes and models? Thanks

I know the 40 merc 4 stroke runs great. I have the new direct inject 2 stroke 40 tohatsu. Very good on gas quiet. Comes with elec start and power trim. I love it.

Electric start would be a must, how much that tohatsu run you?

Call Kyle or Gerald at Lake Area Marine, 337.433.7019. They are the local dealer and really good people.

Make sure you tell them you are a member of SaltyCajun and appreciate their site sponsorship.

Think it was like 4800 after tax and everything it was right around 5200 at lake area marine. And they were the cheapest I found.

Will do, thanks.

Got to sell this old ProDrive now:)

Stay away from the E-Tec 40. It's a slug.

The merc 40 four stroke will run good and quiet.. Buddy runs one on his semi v 16'48 ...
That TLDI is an awesome motor also.

What you want for the pro drive?

TLDI?

I am not ready to sell it just yet til I can get a 100% go on the other motor, but if you are interested I will let you know as soon as I get the go ahead and would also have to see the value of it. Its a 27 hp ProDrive with 10 hours on it. Has reverse also. I think we paid a little over 5k for it. Probably would be a good deal on a very good motor with very little use on it. You will be first to know

Two stroke Low pressure Direct Inject

The Nissan is the exact same motor as the Merc. And it is cheaper

I am very happy with my 40 Yamaha 4 stroker...

Smooth, quiet, and sips gasoline...

Good luck with your choice !

Hydro

you mean Tohatsu;)

When I checked the Nissan was higher than the tohatsu.

The 25 merc ocean pro 2 stroke, tohatsu and nissan are all the same. 25HP and under. The Mercs are not sold in the US

I wish I would have just gotten a 40 instead of a 25..
TLDI is the new Tahistsu (spelling) motors. Which can be hopped to a 50 hp in minutes by popping restrictor plate. Dealership may even do it for you if you want. Good luck..

Right now I have the tohatsu 40 with the restrictor plate pulled so its a 50. On a 1548 semi v with my wife and I in it it runs 35 mph. That's with a 13p aluminum prop. Just changed it to a 12p SS prop but haven't tested it yet. So far I love my tohatsu

I put a 14p Yamaha prop on mine on a 16/48 and ran right at 40 mph with me 3 batteries trolling motor and 6 gal of fuel. I had way to much hook in my boat and was plowing. Took the hook out of my boat but haven't tested it yet. Picked up a couple mph for sure. If you buy from lake area they pull the restricter before you leave the lot.

I just got my 1648 Alweld and 40 Tohatsu w/ restrictor pulled. I am running a 13 pitch powertech prop right now. I love the set up, havent gps'd it yet but I would say upper 30's with 2 people 3 batteries and 6 gallons of fuel. i am interested in seeing the difference a 14 pitch would make, but on that size boat it may be too much. Any opinions?

14p Yamaha runs great on mine. But I have a weldbuilt. Little slower hole shot but fastertop end and can hold a load. It's the black painted stainless prop

I am leaning Tohatsu, going to be in Lake Chuck next week so will run by Lake Area Marine. Thanks guys, I will let you all know when I get the green light and can sell that ProDrive


One more thing: does anyone run a jack plate with their setup? Its mainly for getting into shallower areas thanks

I run a jack plate on mine. 10" set back. I don't run much shallow water but if you did I would go with lower pitch prop for hole shot.

I run a 6" on mine

Well I'm personally running an 04 Merc. 3 cylinder 40. If I had to buy new it would be Tohatsu. T.L.D.I. it's still a 2 stroke and will have more hole shot than a 4 stroke. It will also be lighter wich makes less drag and = more speed. Something to consider on you're prop selection. Lets assume you're running a 11-1/2" x 13pitch and you're turning 5500 rpm. Every number you go up in pitch you will lose 200 rpm. So 11-1/2 x 14p. = 5300 rpm. You will also lose hole shot with a higher pitch prop. Now every 1/4" you go down in diameter you will gain 200 rpm. So lets assume you swap the 11-1/2 x 13p. for a 10-1/2 x 14p. You will gain 800 rpm. because you went down 1" Im diameter. You will subtract 200 rpm. because you went up in pitch. So now you should be running 5900 rpm. The bigger the diameter the more power you will have low end and mid range. You will also be able to push a load better. The lower the pitch you have will increase you're hole shot but kill you're top end. Putting a cup in you're prop adds 1/2" to 1" of pitch. This will also help to stop cavitation in turns and in shallow water running. You hear stories about guys with the same boats and different motors getting way different speeds. The truth is a stock 40hp. motor pushes 40hp. @ target rpm. Prop selection is what makes the difference. What you have to decide is what best suits you're needs. If you're not running shallow water or the marsh, a smaller diameter higher pitch prop is you're best bet. If you're fishing the marsh or shallow water a larger diameter lower pitch prop is what you need. Assuming we're not including chopper or cleaver racing props, Yamaha makes the fastest prop on the market. The black stainless G series is the one you need. However powertech or stock mercury props are better in the marsh. Yamaha props are made of thinner steel than the others so they are faster. The thinner steel is why the other two will do better in the marsh. They are much thicker and will take more abuse.
I know it's alot of info but I hope this helps.

Good info, thanks for sharing.

Good Info. I like the 10-1/4" 14pitch. I don't run a whole lot of shallow stuff.

The computer is different on a tldi 40 than a tldi 50. The restrictor helps a little when removed but its not a 50. If you want a 50 then buy one because an ECU is over a grand.

This is what you need to make it a tldi 50.
http://www.internetoutboards.com/PartDetail.asp?id=1049

Good stuff, thanks.

Winner, Winner!!! Which is exactly why they pull the restrictor plate before you leave. Now you have nothing to compare speeds to. Try buying one stock, running it, GPS you're speeds, than take it in and let them pull the restrictor. They might do it, but I doubt it. Take a fools advice from someone who has been down that road. Buy it stock. Tune you're boat. Meaning setup, weight distribution, jack plate, prop, etc. GPS you're speed as you make adjustments. Once you find you're optimum setting, than have at. Hop it up all you want. At least now you can see the HONEST results of what you've done right there on you're GPS. For speed to increase 15% power has to increase almost 50%. I haven't personally looked at the parts diagram between the 40 and 50. I do remember on the 40-D and 50-D tohatsu put out in the mid 90's it was about $1300 in parts to make it a 50. Same block, different carbs, intake, and exhaust. I can believe the electronics are different on today's motor, I would also take a look at the exhaust as well.

The price difference in a 40d and 50d was about $400 if I remember correctly. Shoot it was $250 between a 25 and a 30. And all you had to do is take a throttle stop or on the later change the gasket behind the carb and it was a 30. Oh and bump timing 5 degrees. When I worked at DHP for the Pooles we made all the 25 hp motors 30 hp before they left the shop.

The G prop is an awesome prop for a flat bottom. The rake of that prop has a lot of stern lift which works great if you have a boat that wants to porpoise.

I personally had a tldi 40 that I bought used. It did have the restrictor in the intake. Made a run one afternoon and gps'd it. While on the water, I removed the restrictor and gps'd it again. Picked up 2-3 mph and it accelerated noticeably stronger. This was comparing apples to apples (same day, body of water, load, etc.). I'm not saying it was as strong as a 50, but it was definitely stronger than it was when it had the restrictor in.

The old 40D and 50D shared the same BLOCK, not the same sleeves, porting was vastly different. As a general rule, on a loaded boat, each additional 5hp will gain 1 mph.
D

Good info, I wasn't aware of that. So is the 50% h.p. for 15% speed ratio total b.s. as well? I want at all trying to give bad info. Just trying to help a guy out. I know exactly how it feels for someone to take advantage of you.

I run a 16x56 with the 40 tldi. 44 mph (gps) with a 16p black yamaha prop.

we got a CUSTOM FLAT 1544 . a little heavier gauge than avg..40 tdli runs 38 with 1 person or 3 loaded. increased 1 or 2 mpg when removed restrictor plate. when we got boat it ran 33. got a jack plate and raised it up just right to get xtra mph. Have not messed around with different props yet. runnin a 13p