Flipping/punching baits
 

Just trying to see the what everyone's favorite flipping or punching bait is. Im pretty new to punching grass mats and other heavy cover. I've been using speed craws mostly but I know there are other baits that could work just as good or even better.


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Senko


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11/2 ounce jig

Zoom Z-Hog and Z-Hog Jr. are my favorites. The Jr can even take a 3/0 flipping hook. I love speed craws for more open areas like laydowns and sparse grass, they don't take the punching abuse as well.

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Berkley pit boss

Berkley pit boss, paca punch has some nice new bait. Sweet beavers. Sometimes i dont thimk it's the color but just the comotion the bait makes as it comes through. I get my tungstens from ebay. Kajun boss lures out of centerville, la. I also just started punching and i like it!!!!

Anyone ever punch with a d bomb or destroyer?


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Both of those Missile Baits are very good, just a little too pricey for me

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The D bombs are the bee's knees. I'll down size to a 3/0 flipping hook for them though. The smaller hook holds them better. I've caught a lot of good fish on them this year. Actually just caught a stud on one Friday. I used to really like the sweet beavers, but the D bombs hold the hook a little better. They fall fast and glide well like the beaver but also have some kick to them on the fall. I've flipped them on tungsten from a 1/2oz to 1-1/4oz. Usually on fluoro. I think the fast fall is what gets you bit more than anything. That fluoro allows it to slide over limbs or grass better than braid. So even if your line is over a limb or two your bait will still fall faster than if you had braid that catches on stuff and slows the fall. I've got a lot more bites than other people in the boat using braid. Just my 2 cents

Beavers

Does the color really matter filling grass mats?


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Flipping*


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I try to keep it pretty simple ...

Loose vegetation or sparse cover - R/I Beaver.

Has a unique glide when pegged. Also when the water is cold/winter everything moves sluggish then and this lures doesn't have crazy loose appendages on the fall flapping everywhere. Looks sluggish like nature around it.

But in tight packed vegetation (hay grass) or thick brush - Zoom Z-hog.

The less lines/ridges/appendages (its slick) the easier the lure will slide in with less weight or head ach. Resulting in higher percentages of a successful penetration through a mat or a pitch to a target and it not fouling on a limb or twig on the first attempt.

Color - If the water is clear watermelon or Cali 420 will do. If its dirty black/blue. If Im questioning my choice ... black/blue seems to always work.

Where's the best place to buy tungsten weights? Those suckers are expensive.

What lb. test & brand of fluorocarbon do you recommend?

X 2 !

Slowly getting away from braid for this. Had good success this year using 20 and 25 flouro at the Bend. Especially on the weekends around the hay grass going behind what seems to be 1,000 boats ...

I think heavy fluoro will definitely get more bites versus braid. However, I bought a 300 yd spool of braid 2 years ago and my reels are still spooled up with it, and I don't plan on changing it. Also, I can switch and throw a frog or something else with it. It's just an expense thing for me, but 25 pound fluoro on a dedicated flipping rod is hard to beat.

I thought I've been using #25 lb this whole year. I back all my reels with mono or braid and just tie enough main line to not be able to cast it all out. Helps cut back on buying so much expensive fluoro or braid. But I finally needed to re-spool and turns out I've been flipping 20 with zero breaks with countless fish being hung in bushes and having to dig them out. I re-tie a lot though. I'll def go up to #25 next spool I buy though just in case. I've been using red label seaguar but it's like about like flipping with a slinky. Spend some more money and get a quality fluoro that's made for flipping. If you back your reel it will last twice as long also.

I hear ya. Instead of re-spooling your braid reels after it starts to flatten out and fade, try tying it to something (in your yard or parking lot or whatever) and walking away from it to un-spool it. After you un-spool it walk back to where you tied it to something and spool it from that end. Boom, new line.

I use 40-50 pound stren braid with a 4' leader of 20 pound red label for flippin wood.Use a alberto knot for the knot. Can't stand the coil of heavy straight floro on a reel. Been using this setup the last 3 years never had an issue. When punching grass I use 70 pound daiwa samari braid straight. It's expensive but I only spool about 40 yards on a reel.

I use the alberto on all my spinning gear and tie fluoro to braid, but I've always been afraid of the knot catching on stuff if I was to flip with it.

I was not too confident in that setup at first. But after catching countless fish with it I don't worry about it. Even caught a 4' alligator gar and line didn't break. Several bassmaster pros use the same setup.

Where is a good place to buy tungsten sinkers? Wondering if anyone has a favorite website or store, price wise.

Forgot to mention.....when using the braid to floro setup I use a medium fast action rod. Anything heavier is overkill IMO.

These are the ones I use....not the cheapest but they are high quality.

https://www.hawgtech.com/tungsten-weights

I've never used the Hawgtechs to know if this is a concern with them or not ... but I have had trouble threading braid though some inserts depending on size of line, weight being used, and brand. Especially if the end of the line isn't cut super clean. Also have had inserts come out after a couple of uses. Don't know if these do that or not and the openings look of decent size.

These have served me well for the last couple of years. No inserts and clean insides not to fray line. Also large openings make rigging easy and fast if you have to retie in a hurry. Not to mention if you hit the $50 mark shipping is free. With their large selection of lures its usually pretty easy ...


http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Picas...page-PTFW.html

I also order from Tackle Warehouse, but I get the Vike brand weights, paycheck punch stops and punch skirts, and both pit boss and D bombs. I also sleeve all my weights with shrink tubing to protect line from any imperfections inside the weight. If you need to know how look up the video of Aaron Martins showing how to add inserts to tungsten weights.

I use those I listed to avoid the extra steps of prepping gear. I'm all about keeping it simple and fast with least head ach as possible. Ive never had line get frayed from these to make me think I need to add the inserts. I did have some years ago that I would have needed to do what your talking about due to them being so rough. That's why I switched brands.

If your worried about the weight slamming the top of your hook eye and cutting the line on the set ( rare but usually from 1.5 + weight ) ... slide a stop on behind the weight to protect the knot. Quick and easy. Your plastic will still slides partially over it and with the cup section of large weights it counter sinks like its not even there still allowing your weight to sit flush as one with the plastic.

These grip really well and rarely get cut by braid or pop off during the day. A littler larger diameter than most as well. If I use above 1.5 oz. and in really heavy cover I slide 2 on then my weight and then 1 behind. Takes but a second to rig and if one does happen to get cut then theres already another there not to force a retie. Also helps this way for when really heavy close to 2oz. not to have to keep sliding stops back down to keep weight tight pegged with the 2 in place.

In any case ... theres no right or wrong. Just ideas and what works best for you is best to stick with.

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/6th_S...age-6SPEG.html

Thanks to all

Yea it's a great knot for sure. I've never broke it on any of my spinning rigs before. I'm sure it works fine, I just don't think I could trust it trying to cross one's eyes setting the hook flipping lol.

As far as weights I've tried eco pro and strike kings. I like the SK and use the peg its to peg the weight. Never had any problems with either and they have big enough holes to thread any type of line and the rubber stoppers through
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Top_B...page-TBPI.html

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Strik...age-SKTGT.html

I've never really needed anything heavier than 1-1/4 oz. That's as high as SK tour grades go. T-Boo I know the academy brand H20 express sells tungsten cheaper than most but never tried them.

BTW if you guys have an account with Tackle warehouse here's a good little tip. I've had one for about 3 years now, and if you share a computer with your significant other, LOG OUT after you order. It lists all your previous orders plain as day. If they go back through and tally up how much you've spent... it's downhill from there. Trust me.

Hahaha

This wins as tip of the day hands down !!!

Tungstens
 

t-boo i buy mine on ebay from a guy in centerville. Look for kajun boss lures. I get 5- 1oz weights for $24 with no shipping. Also look for cobra flipping hooks on ebay.

I too buy most of my tungsten from tackle warehouse. The strike kings are fine and are sold at academy too. Don't forget your bobber stops. I don't know how I fished for years without them. Those are not sold at academy. As far as baits I am a zoom guy usually. I like the rage craw but I find the flippers get ripped off. For zoom I have had success with the speed crawls, and lately the new z hawg. I was having some issues with line twist on my 20lb floro with the z hawgs but I'm not sure if it was the straight shank hook not sitting right or the coiled up line (sea gar red label). Gonna switch to the new sun line pitching or sea gar pitching floor once I'm out. I honestly have had good success with 20lb floro. I don't see much need to go heavier unless Im fishing braid in the jungle, in which case I usually go 50lb. Might try the 65lb but again I have no line breakage with either.