Trailor Siding

[Harley123]

Need some opinions from you guys pros and cons type of thing I live in a double wide trailor on a concrete slab and I don't like the vinyle siding it has cracks in it and holes in different places from who knows what. I am going to put cinder block skirting when funds allow, Metal roof, and I am going to also replace all windows with double pain insulated windows so my question is I want to replace the vinyle siding with something besides vinyle was thinking about metal, thought about hardy planks whats yall thoughts thanks guys

[breambuster]

have you looked into the log cabin conversions? not sure your budget. but if me and the wife end up with a trailer that's what we're gonna do. some look cheap but some of them look pretty sharp

[Ed32]

i would go with hardi plank. i installed it on my house 12 years ago and it still looks like the day it was put up. no holes, cracks, etc. it holds the paint really well.

[cduhon]

X2 on hardy board. Tougher, better insulated and will last much longer than vinyl.

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[MarshRat89]

Hardi plank defenently!

[Matt G]

I'm about to rip the metal off of my house and put hardy board. Not expensive at all and it is so damn durable.

[pricecb]

I've been in construction for a long time. You can do any exterior application you want on a MH long as you install it properly. I've even seen people brick them. It's expensive but it all can be done. Just make sure it's done right.

Hardi is the way to go as far as cost-value. You might even get it painted with that rhino shied. Looks good and last forever. Again as long as it is installed correct.

[Harley123]

Matt G why are you taking the metal off of your house

[Matt G]

Originally Posted by Harley123

Matt G why are you taking the metal off of your house

We built a metal building house and now we are adding on so the old lady mentioned taking off the metal and doing siding to look more like a house so I priced it to see. For a 33'x42' building and a 20'x30' addition I'm looking at around $3,000 for material. Momma gets what she wants, and I get to use the metal for the duck camp.

A pic of my house now......... I think it looks like a house, but whatever makes momma happy.
image.jpg

[breambuster]

Do you have any pictures of how you did the inside?

[Matt G]

I can get a few when I get back home. I don't know what happend to all the pics of the building process. It's all stud walls and Sheetrock with 9' ceilings in the bedrooms and 11' ceilings that vault to 14' in the living and kitchen. We put tile and laminate wood floor. It's fairly deceiving from the outside when you're driving down my driveway.

[Harley123]

looks like a house to me

[Matt G]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1379283092.392032.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1379283110.336078.jpg

A few pics.

[Goooh]

Originally Posted by Matt G

We built a metal building house and now we are adding on so the old lady mentioned taking off the metal and doing siding to look more like a house so I priced it to see. For a 33'x42' building and a 20'x30' addition I'm looking at around $3,000 for material. Momma gets what she wants, and I get to use the metal for the duck camp.

A pic of my house now......... I think it looks like a house, but whatever makes momma happy.
Attachment 55764

Is that a salt life sticker on the back of your truck?


Sent

[Matt G]

You know it. I'm waiting for my Marsh Life, Mud Life, and Yeti stickers to come in! The power pole will be back on it next week.

[jlsch1]

Mfg home on the windows they make mfg home windows with higher strength rating and seal better than a window that you would buy for a traditional home. I have seen the actual testing on the windows and it does work in a new mfg home. You can put traditional windows for a house on mfg home but I would price both out with pros and cons of each.

2 Reasons
1. If there is a fire in the mfg home the mfg doors and windows help reduce fires.
Being sealed better and stronger help reduce amount of oxygen in the mfg home which helps reduce the fire. Does it work probably not.

2. Stronger due to mfg home typically moves alot more than a house. Mfg home windows with be able to handle the flexing better.

Putting fiber cement on a mfg home.
Hardie, Nicihia, and Certainteed all make good products depends on what you want.
You can and depends on if you want 4x8 sheets in RB&B & Sierra or lap siding.
Both are a pain to put up.
They do suggest priming and painting so more maintenance.
Lap siding recommended 1/8" gap with a flashing behind the gap.
Some mfg will allow caulking as a proper installation practice if you have a claim in the future.
1/8" gap looks better and give fiber cement room to flex.
If job done right it will look good.

Once you pull off the vinyl you may want to replace your weatherization barrier.
If you tape all your seams, flash your windows, doors, and penetrations right you should reduce to chance of water leaks inside your home.
You should also see a slight reduction off cold air coming in the home when a cold front comes through.
Remember vinyl siding channels water. If you look on the back of siding it has channels to help move water.
Fiber cement does not have channels, so make sure your weatherization barrier in good shape if not its cheap to replace while got siding off.

[papap]

If you decide to use cement board. Get Big Flex caulk. Well worth the money.

[jlsch1]

One thing I forgot to say on Fiber Cement board, hardboard siding, engineered siding, real wood siding.

Prime and paint all 6 sides that is a cheap investment even though the siding is primed just as a caution.

Cheaper to do alittle more work at the start than fixing a costly repair later that can be avoided.

[yigodiver]

Hardy board is hard to beat, Had it put on my house when residing in North Central Kansas, loved also sealed it with Lexan, best stuff out there.

Used scrap for deer stand seat, still holding up for over 7 years now.