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  #1  
Old 09-16-2013, 04:31 PM
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Lake Chuck Duck Lake Chuck Duck is offline
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Default Any mechanics?

08 chevy silverado
Check engine code P0449
Evaporative emission system purge/vent solenoid circuit condition
Explanation: the sole kids and system wiring are monitored for opens or shorts

Probable cause:
Purge or vent solenoids defective
Check connector and wiring
Fuel saturated vapor canister
Failed EVAP vent solenoid

What's my path forward and am I ok to drive to Houston tomorrow? Any insight is appreciated.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:52 PM
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Drove mine like that for a week before I got it fixed. Doesn't hurt anything, just can't pass inspection if they check the code. Not cheap to fix either.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:01 PM
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A Chevy isn't running right unless the check engine light is on.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:06 PM
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First check engine light in 5 years.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micah View Post
Drove mine like that for a week before I got it fixed. Doesn't hurt anything, just can't pass inspection if they check the code. Not cheap to fix either.
You remember how much it was to fix and what they said the issue was?
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lake Chuck Duck View Post
You remember how much it was to fix and what they said the issue was?
Vent solenoid was bad and stuck open or something along those lines. It was my first and only check engine light also. Not sure on price cause I got my door locks fixed at the same time, thinking around $300 for just that.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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Most likely a vent solenoid. I've changed a ton of em. They get water in them and they die. Cant help on the price though. I stay in the shop and let the office folks deal with prices. Not gona hurt anything to drive it that way. If it werent for the tree hugging global warming crowd we wouldnt have that crap.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:35 PM
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Run about a 10 to 1 ratio of vent solenoids to purge solenoids if ya wana take a chance and do it yourself. Will still need to have the light turned off but I think auto zone will do that for cheap
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:28 PM
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Take company vehicle
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2013, 08:40 PM
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Google the reset for the code. If it happened just after you last purchased fuel then you probably did not screw the fuel cap on tight enough and it tripped the code. If I remember correctly it is easy and usually free to reset it at the quicklubes.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:33 AM
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Only way to reset your check engine light is with a scan tool of some sort. Quick lube places may do it for free and if so they are costing themselves money big time. If the fuel cap was left loose it would have set a code for an EVAP system leak.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micah View Post
Vent solenoid was bad and stuck open or something along those lines. It was my first and only check engine light also. Not sure on price cause I got my door locks fixed at the same time, thinking around $300 for just that.
Door locks? As in the door locks don't work when you put it in drive or put it in park? That's what my back driver side door is doing. I just leave it locked now.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
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Door locks? As in the door locks don't work when you put it in drive or put it in park? That's what my back driver side door is doing. I just leave it locked now.
Yes. Electric locks weren't working. Mine started at the same door then the drivers door then the other back door. Wouldn't work when putting in drive/park or the push button/door button. It's the actuators that go out I believe. That wasn't cheap either.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micah View Post
Yes. Electric locks weren't working. Mine started at the same door then the drivers door then the other back door. Wouldn't work when putting in drive/park or the push button/door button. It's the actuators that go out I believe. That wasn't cheap either.
Dammit.
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  #15  
Old 09-18-2013, 08:59 AM
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Dammit.
If you're comfortable taking the door panels off, you can do it yourself. There's videos on YouTube on how to do it. Save some money that way.
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  #16  
Old 09-18-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micah View Post
If you're comfortable taking the door panels off, you can do it yourself. There's videos on YouTube on how to do it. Save some money that way.
I can do that. I had to change my mirror a few months ago, so I bought the tool to pop the panels off. I'll look into that. Thanks!!
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:58 AM
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If you change the actuator MG it comes as an actuator/latch assemby. If it works using your lock/unlock button it probably isnt the actuator at fault.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman1911 View Post
If you change the actuator MG it comes as an actuator/latch assemby. If it works using your lock/unlock button it probably isnt the actuator at fault.
It doesn't work with my lock/unclock button either. All the other locks work except that back driver side one.
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2013, 01:07 PM
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Actuator will prolly take care of your problem man. The plastic keepers that hold the 3 rods to the actuator can be a pain in the rear sometimes but overall its not a bad job. You have a chevy or gmc right? Dont wana give advice for the wrong vehicle.lol
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  #20  
Old 09-18-2013, 03:46 PM
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Silverado
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