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  #21  
Old 02-25-2016, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Reggoh View Post
I know how to tune my bow for shooting broadheads... how do you actually "tune" the broadhead before it is shot? I don't understand what you guys are talking about.

Mechanicals are 1 piece broadheads... most fixed blades are 1 piece or you put the blades in only 1 way...

There is nothing to "change" or "tune" on a broadhead that I'm aware of... Have I been missing something for the past 9 years??
We are going to be in trouble for talking about broad head tuning.

Broadhead tuning a bow and tuning a broadhead is different.

Broadhead tuning is only really confirming that broadhead is straight and perfectly aligned on the shaft and insuring you have the correct fletching to give arrow stabilization without having too much fletching with will affect performance.

I will stay away from talking about broadhead tuning a bow but plenty of help on that from the net or local bow shop.
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Crawl79 View Post
We are going to be in trouble for talking about broad head tuning.
Not sure what this is about... but if someone is going to get in internet trouble for discussing a topic on a public forum maybe we are on the wrong forum.
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2016, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Reggoh View Post
Not sure what this is about... but if someone is going to get in internet trouble for discussing a topic on a public forum maybe we are on the wrong forum.
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Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
Infraction......this term is not allow.....IMO.
Someone mentioned they would like an archery sub-forum as long as no one brought up the topic broadhead tuning.

I don't have a problem with it. I always check my own equipment and normally tune my own bow.
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  #24  
Old 02-25-2016, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reggoh View Post
I know how to tune my bow for shooting broadheads... how do you actually "tune" the broadhead before it is shot? I don't understand what you guys are talking about.

Mechanicals are 1 piece broadheads... most fixed blades are 1 piece or you put the blades in only 1 way...

There is nothing to "change" or "tune" on a broadhead that I'm aware of... Have I been missing something for the past 9 years??
I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.
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  #25  
Old 02-25-2016, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluechip View Post
I shot those for a few years. No complaints with it.
They shoot great and are tough. 3riversarchery.com is the only place I find them anymore. Some of them used to be marketed under Ted Nugent's line of stuff.
Have shoot G5's and like them too. Haven't shot a critter with them though. Going back to Stingers for my recurve since that's what I want to hunt with now. A deer or hog with a recurve instintive shooting would be badA. At least to me it would.
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  #26  
Old 02-26-2016, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman1911 View Post
I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.

I just shoot regular out of the box untunable broadheads... haha... As long as they keep passing through the deer I'll just keep shooting them. I do spin test them to make sure they are seated properly in the arrow but I don't think that is considered "tuning"... I've never had one that was wobbly.
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  #27  
Old 02-26-2016, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reggoh View Post
I just shoot regular out of the box untunable broadheads... haha... As long as they keep passing through the deer I'll just keep shooting them. I do spin test them to make sure they are seated properly in the arrow but I don't think that is considered "tuning"... I've never had one that was wobbly.
If it ain't broke don't fix it bro.
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  #28  
Old 02-26-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman1911 View Post
I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.
Once I make the switch to traditional I will be trying that broadhead. Looking at getting a Bear Grizzly but want to try a few before I buy. Not sure what poundage to get yet.
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  #29  
Old 02-26-2016, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawl79 View Post
Once I make the switch to traditional I will be trying that broadhead. Looking at getting a Bear Grizzly but want to try a few before I buy. Not sure what poundage to get yet.
The grizzly is nice. For your first bow I would suggest a take down stlye bow. Whit them you can buy replacement limbs of differnt weights. I have a set of 45, 50&55lb limbs for one of my take downs. Kind of makes an all around bow. Use the lighter limbs for summer time plinking and the heavy ones when its time to get serious. Check out 3riversarchery.com. All they do is traditional archery
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  #30  
Old 02-26-2016, 02:17 PM
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Been shooting Slick Trick Standards for several years now cuz they leave a nice hole that won't close up and before that I shot Thunderhead 100s. Both great broadheads.
the only drawback with the STs is removing them from a broadhead target because they are not tapered on the back side.
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  #31  
Old 02-26-2016, 02:23 PM
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Muzzy / Grim Reapers
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  #32  
Old 03-14-2016, 05:49 PM
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NAP Spitfire Pro 100g, 3 blade. Passthroughs @ 60# Z7
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  #33  
Old 03-15-2016, 08:03 AM
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I really like my ramcats but like to have expendables in quiver as well.

Right now I keep a couple Grim Reaper Whitetail specials in the quiver but think the G5 Havocs look like would be a good broadhead. Can anyone give any real world experience on how they fly and penetration and thoughts on wound channels.
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