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  #21  
Old 04-23-2014, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meaux fishing View Post
cool thanks... I only got to look at it a few minutes tonight. Im gonna get after it more tomorrow
Just let me know if you need me there.
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2014, 10:40 PM
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power for the trim comes from the motor. look for a fuse there first. Are you around Lafayette? I will be back in from Houston tomorrow if you need a hand.
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  #23  
Old 04-23-2014, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishin i was fishin View Post
power for the trim comes from the motor. look for a fuse there first. Are you around Lafayette? I will be back in from Houston tomorrow if you need a hand.
He's not getting power to key switch either tho from what I'm grasping


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  #24  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:06 AM
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Make sure the wiring harness is plugged into the control box ,could be loose.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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  #25  
Old 04-24-2014, 01:10 AM
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hey man take the bolt out of the neg wire hook up on the starter an take it out an use a sand paper or end ggrinder with flappin wheel to shine up around the bolt were the wire hooks up it mite not be getn good contact .happened to me like to drove me crazy
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squatcher101 View Post
hey man take the bolt out of the neg wire hook up on the starter an take it out an use a sand paper or end ggrinder with flappin wheel to shine up around the bolt were the wire hooks up it mite not be getn good contact .happened to me like to drove me crazy

Tried that today. Nothing. I also tested the wire going to the key switch that goes to the ECM it's running 12.8. Tested the perko switch, 12.8v on all posts too
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:33 PM
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Have you checked your grounds?


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  #28  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:43 PM
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If you have quick connects from key switch to battery ohm that live on the key switch side. My owners manual has a wiring diagram on the last page that really helps. Key switch could be bad where it switches from no power to power inside the switch. It seems as though it's inside the switch contact bc you have power from battery to switch but not from switch to remote start or power trim


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  #29  
Old 04-24-2014, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgizzle View Post
If you have quick connects from key switch to battery ohm that live on the key switch side. My owners manual has a wiring diagram on the last page that really helps. Key switch could be bad where it switches from no power to power inside the switch. It seems as though it's inside the switch contact bc you have power from battery to switch but not from switch to remote start or power trim


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Bad ignition switch.
Yep.
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2014, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgizzle View Post
If you have quick connects from key switch to battery ohm that live on the key switch side. My owners manual has a wiring diagram on the last page that really helps. Key switch could be bad where it switches from no power to power inside the switch. It seems as though it's inside the switch contact bc you have power from battery to switch but not from switch to remote start or power trim


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratdog View Post
Bad ignition switch.

Yep.
Gonna try to test that and the trim switch tomorrow. My guess is a bad wiring harness, but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed for an easier solution. Thanks for the ideas so far
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  #31  
Old 04-24-2014, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meaux fishing View Post
Gonna try to test that and the trim switch tomorrow. My guess is a bad wiring harness, but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed for an easier solution. Thanks for the ideas so far
Even if it is inside the harness, to eliminate/bypass/isolate the harness is, one by one clip the wire on one side (key switch) then the next side(to battery) and butt connect them together one wire at a time so nothing gets mixed up. Disconnect battery side first so you don't short anything. This way if that's what is you don't have to wait for a harness.


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  #32  
Old 04-24-2014, 09:58 PM
Elbert Chamblee Elbert Chamblee is offline
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My older Yamaha had a fuse on the side of the block near the back of the motor. When it blew due to wires inside the throttle/shift control touching. The motor would run and everything would work. Shut it down and all is dead. No trim and would not turn over. You could jump start to starter and all was good till you shut down.
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  #33  
Old 04-24-2014, 10:32 PM
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Multi meter that is a insulation tester.

Let me know if you want to test insulation.
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  #34  
Old 04-25-2014, 07:26 AM
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What kinda motor is this, by the way?


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  #35  
Old 04-25-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgizzle View Post
What kinda motor is this, by the way?


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suzuki 250 4 stroke
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  #36  
Old 04-25-2014, 09:35 AM
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http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/s...ey-switch.html


I found this last night. Hope it helps.


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  #37  
Old 04-25-2014, 10:42 PM
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Bobbbb, Are you sure your batteries are charged?????? lol
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  #38  
Old 04-26-2014, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by speck-chaser View Post
Bobbbb, Are you sure your batteries are charged?????? lol

Lmao!!!
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  #39  
Old 04-26-2014, 12:41 AM
jmarine jmarine is offline
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Suzuki's has a white wire that has to be hooked up to a positive side of a batt. and it also has a fuse if it is blown you will not have no trim and also will not turn over
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  #40  
Old 04-26-2014, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmarine View Post
Suzuki's has a white wire that has to be hooked up to a positive side of a batt. and it also has a fuse if it is blown you will not have no trim and also will not turn over

Thanks, but I already checked the white wire at both ends, no dice.
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