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  #21  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:39 AM
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BassYakR BassYakR is offline
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lol sorry buddy! I dont wanna go fast no more... i just wanna fishhhhhhh
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk17 View Post
Mercury's mexican electronics are known for giving problems as well. Makes sure everything is firing properly before you start running it again after you rebuild it. Some people don't agree with gutting the thermostat but IMO you don't need one in south LA on a carb 2 stroke. Gut the thermostat and let it flow. If you plan on doing the rebuild yourself get a mercury service manual and makes sure everything is within specs.
I had crazy thermostat problems with my old Johnson GT 150. Then I ganked them and plugged the holes with RTV and never had a problem. It was cold hearted in the winter but never messed up again


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  #23  
Old 10-22-2013, 03:39 PM
kb7722 kb7722 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk17 View Post
I just don't see the need for thermostats in south la with the heat we have. I ran a 25 merc for years without a thermostat,hell I would pump straight mud through that motor. Did the same thing on my v4 evinrude with zero issues. Good podna of mine runs an old 2.0 merc 135 on a tunnel hull with no thermostat and it's still running to this day.
Guess that is why you aren't in the business of designing engines.
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  #24  
Old 10-22-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BassYakR View Post
lol sorry buddy! I dont wanna go fast no more... i just wanna fishhhhhhh
Lol. I understand.


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  #25  
Old 10-22-2013, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kb7722 View Post
Guess that is why you aren't in the business of designing engines.





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  #26  
Old 10-22-2013, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kb7722 View Post
Guess that is why you aren't in the business of designing engines.
X2
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  #27  
Old 10-22-2013, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassYakR View Post
lol sorry buddy! I dont wanna go fast no more... i just wanna fishhhhhhh
Wait...huh? Can you repeat lol. Glad to see u getting ur boat back on the water...
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  #28  
Old 10-23-2013, 04:46 AM
hawgsquatch hawgsquatch is offline
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If you look at you most fried piston you can see how the top has been pockmarked and eroded away. That is a sign of pre-detonation. Basically, it is caused by the gas oil air mix exploding rather than burning rapidly. It is usually caused by low octane fuel, but can be caused by advanced ignition timing. If that was the case the lower crank bearings are likely to be beat to death and new pistons will last right up until one of the cages spits some hardened bearing race into the combustion chamber. Check it out before you invest.
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  #29  
Old 10-23-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawgsquatch View Post
If you look at you most fried piston you can see how the top has been pockmarked and eroded away. That is a sign of pre-detonation. Basically, it is caused by the gas oil air mix exploding rather than burning rapidly. It is usually caused by low octane fuel, but can be caused by advanced ignition timing. If that was the case the lower crank bearings are likely to be beat to death and new pistons will last right up until one of the cages spits some hardened bearing race into the combustion chamber. Check it out before you invest.
Yeah but u cant see in the pictures that there are no signs of detonation on the tops of the piston itself. I think what ur seeeing on the tops of the cylinder is from a previous rebuild.

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  #30  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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This motor was on a fresh rebuild when i purchased it. 100 percent my fault as to the damage it has now. U live and u learn! unfortunently these lessons tend to cost me alot of money! lol
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  #31  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:26 AM
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If the motor has been rebuilt before make sure the main bearing on the crank shaft isn't bad. It may look good but your motor will run good for a little while and burn up again.
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  #32  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:56 AM
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I know who built it last time and i know he does a very good job..... The reason it burnt up this time was my fault. I ran it hot

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