Calling all hookers
 

Who here runs a hook on there aluminum hull and what benefits have you gained? I have a slight bow bounce when I trim enough to peak my rpm's. Cavitation plate is currently about 1.5" above bottom. This is the only instructions I've found.Attachment 101362Attachment 101363

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Never heard of someone wanting to have hooks in there hull


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Cajunchristian does this routinely but I haven't heard anything from the pm I sent him. I know he has done several for people on here.

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I'm not doubting your approach, and I'm sure there's a good answer but why not trim tabs?

From what CC says trim tabs will lose speed where as hooking gains. That's why I'd like to hear some more detailed info from the guys on here. There are old threads pertaining to this but now I have questions.

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Ok I gotchya, tabs would create too much drag for the speed your looking for.

Have you thought about something like Teflon strips glued to the hull, something 1/4" or less. File the Teflon strips to the desired thickness, and it's removable. May not work at all, but Its a thought.

That is a pretty good idea! Well, sounds good anyway. [emoji16]

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And this isn't that my boat runs bad. I just think it can do a little better. Running mid 40's on a 1652 with a 40/60 merc. Just that little bounce when I start trimming too much.

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Lol, yea Google gave me that one. Apparently it's somewhat common practice on fiberglass barefoot boats.

My tunnel hull has fixed 4" trim tabs that I "hooked". I can only tell the difference when I'm running real light but it makes the boat ride higher on the water, and 0 proposing.

Just not sure how to fasten trim tabs. Really don't want to weld on my boat.Attachment 101401

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Did you put the poling deck on there? I like it


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Bought it like that out of Houma. I took it off.

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Just got off the the with CC. Super nice guy and very informative. Here's what I've learned. Seems when I read he earlier comments on hooking boats, I got out of it what I wanted and not what he intended lol. They hook hulls to stop porpoising basically at a neutral trim. He explained that your maximum speed is obtained when the cavitation plate is parallel with the bottom of the hull. Anything more or less you're waisting HP driving the nose up or down instead of forward. Makes sense. Many thanks to Danny for taking a few minutes to explain this.

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I never really thought about positive trim adding drag, but I'm assuming that's what CC means. Makes sense.

So, what's the next step if anything?
What's your speed right now, I remember you were doing pretty good?
I understand your only trying to gain few mph max and basically maximizing your setup.

He told me to see if the hull had a hook. If so, take it out. If it doesn't, my next step will be raising motor. I'm already about 1.5" above with 6" set back. All in all, the boat runs great and I could just leave it be. This time of year is hard on me as I don't fish much but want to be on the water so I start tinkering lol.

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What I said was, a motor performs at 100% efficiency with a trim angle of 3 degrees positive. You have, lets say, 50 horsepower. ALL work requires horsepower. Lifting the bow of your boat is work, pushing your boat forward is work. How many horsepower will you use to lift the bow and how many to push it forward, REMEMBER you only have 50. When you trim beyond 3 degrees, you are using more and more horsepower to lift the bow. The more you use to lift the bow, the less you have to push the boat forward.
Take a prop in your hands and hold it parallel to the ground. Now tilt it as though you are trimming the motor out. The angle of attack of the blades are taking less bite the more you trim out, that's why the rpm's go up as you trim out. As you trim out, the thrust is going up instead of forward. Sure, a rooster tail is neat, but it is a colossal waste of horsepower.
If you can trim your motor to the end of the trim's lift, you are wasting horsepower. Run a straight edge from the bottom of your hull to the cav plate on the motor. Make them parallel, not EVEN, height wise, parallel. Tap the trim up once, that is close to 3 degrees positive. If you are running negative trim or excess positive trim, the setup is not right. First, shift weight to try to get it to run WOT at 3 degrees positive without bouncing. If you can't trim 3 degrees, you may need trim tabs or a slight hook. I have never hooked a hull more than 3/16ths of an inch. A little goes a long way. There are many ways to solve different problems, not "one fixes all".

if your not happy with Mid 40's with a 40/60 go buy a bigger motor

Good is the enemy of great!
D

Great explanation Dan.

On my boat....16' Alumacraft with 40 hp Tahatsu, when I trim up to get max speed [36 mph @ 5800 rpm] I sometimes start to bounce and have to come down just a hair.

I will have to look to see what angle the motor is at and see if any shift in weight would increase speed.

I like that quote, good stuff.

Thanks for explaining everything, defiantly helps simplify the process.

Thanks for clearing this up for us Danny. I tried to quote you as I best could. Great information here for all.

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I try to explain things the only way I know how, simple. I'll be the first to admit that I don't know everything. When a man stops learning, it's time to die. I have been around these small boats for over 40 years, can't help but learn something. That little bit of knowledge took me to 2 World Championships, so some of it works. The difference between me and second place was about 500 hours of testing. NEVER stop trying to improve, you're either going forward or going backwards, there is no standing still.
The secret to getting the most out of a boat is to keep trying different things. There is no one thing that fixes a problem. EVERY boat is different, even within the same brand.
When you begin to understand hydrodynamics, you begin to understand why a ____ does what it does. Insert a word in the blank, boat, motor, propeller, weight shift.
I always try not to sound condescending. If I ever do, please tell me, it is not intentional.
I have a different prop for the 40/50 tohatsu 4 stroke next week. I'll keep you guys posted on the test results. I keep searching and trying different design props, someday I'll find the best.
D

Would love to get me a new tohatsu. Just can't do now. Hopefully some day I get to make it by you place and gain some knowledge and get to know you. Seem like a genuine and honest man which is what I like surrounding myself with.

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Thank You. I simply try to do what my God tells me to do. He hasn't led me wrong yet.
D

Danny is Top Shelf for sure! I had the pleasure of knowing him before he became famous, hasn't changed him at all. :D

jack
 

hey CC, would a hydraulic jack plate help him achieve what he is looking for? i am thinking about putting one on my boat but $1000-$1200 is a hard pill to swallow for a maybe

Whether that would help me or not doesn't matter to me at that price lol. It catches plenty fish as it is.

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Not enough to pay that much money for one. I have one because I test so many props I would wear the bolt holes out on a manual lift.
I expect a couple of props to come in this week. Trying a few different props to find something to outperform the black painted Yamaha props, I think we may have found it. If they do as well as expected, they run higher than the Yamaha prop, which is always good for marsh boats. They have more blade are, which helps load carrying.
D

Paul, there's a difference between famous and notorious:D
Never tried or wanted to be famous, I'd rather be known as someone that tried to help anyone and everyone.
D

That's what you're famous for Danny, helping people without asking for anything in return.

Thank You Paul, I appreciate that.
God Bless
Danny

please report back on this when you can.

I love the black painted Yamaha prop you recommended for my tohatsu 40hp, but if there is something better im willing to replace it for that.

by better, are you thinking in terms of overall performance, carrying load, hole shot, or top speed?

Anything the runs equal to the yamaha in speed and is about $250 is a win. Yamaha just had a price increase, expect to pay $500 retail for one, if you can get one, they seem to produce about 10 props a year, that is ridiculous.
The props I will test, I am hoping will run higher than the Yamaha, carry a load better by not losing speed when loaded. And best of all, retail for about $250. And no, I am doing this testing to keep the information secret, what do you think I am testing them for, duhhhhhh?

What's your thoughts on Ron Hill props Danny?

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I have tried a few of his specialty props, not favorably impressed.
D

Thanks. I run a powertech scb3 17 pitch and like it

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I'm waiting on one of the props to come in. They both will run higher than the Yamaha, at about half the price, not sure yet on performance. I expect them to run 1-2 mph faster than the Yamaha. Even if they run the same speed, half the price and jack the motor higher for the marsh is a winner.
D

Keep us posted

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Here goes boys, I tested the Solas New Saturn 11" diameter 15 pitch, the PowerTech SRD 11.25" diameter 15 pitch, against my Yamaha black painted stainless steel 15 pitch and 16 pitch.
My boat had 3 batteries, 5 props, and a 48qt cooler filled with water.

I tested hole shot, that is the time it takes when at a dead stop hitting full throttle, when the boat breaks over.
Yamaha 16 2.9 seconds
Yamaha 15 2.7 seconds
Solas 15 2.8 seconds
SRD 15 2.4 seconds

Top end
Yamaha 16 40.9 mph
Yamaha 15 38.9 mph
Solas 15 38.1 mph
SRD 15 40.9 mph

RPM at WOT
Yamaha 16 6100
Yamaha 15 6200 rev limited
Solas 15 6200 rev limited
SRD 15 6200 rev limited

I have 10" setback and I measure height from measuring the clamp bracket to the transom.
The Yamaha props both run at 4" above the transom
The Solas ran 5 inches above the transom
The SRD ran 7" above the transom
I have a SRD 16 and a SRD 17 pitch on the way. The SRD was the most comfortable to drive, did nothing stupid, o bounce, no chine walk, smooth even pull all the way to top end. I have sold my Yammie props and ordered the PowerTech SRD
And before anyone starts, I know it does not jive with a prop calculator, the calculator says it cannot run that fast. All I can figure is that the SRD is a 15 pitch close to the hub and pitches up towards the tips. Can't wait to test the 16 and 17 pitch SRD's.

Great report! Wonder what the difference would be between my SRB 17 pitch and an SRD 17 pitch?

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I tested the DRB in the past, it was not remarkable at all.

Don't know why I put SRB, my prop is am SCB, semi clever.

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The SCB has always been about 2 mph slower than the Yamaha prop.
D

Have you had a chance to run the 16 or 17 SRD'S?

Is there a way to remove hooks from an older boat?

Nice
 

Good Idea