concrete

[Gottogo49]

Originally Posted by barbarian

x2 on the shrinkwrap and pallet jack. I sure wish we were getting 85-90/yard in Houston. 3000 psi is going for about 65-70 over here and I honestly think 3000 is all you need. Any more and it is over kill. They use 3000 on almost every street over here. I would definitely use either the fiber mesh or some type of wire. The fiber mesh is a $6 adder over here and it comes out real close to a wash on cost compared to wire. Just regular vehicles, 3 1/2" is enough. If you go back to semi's, 6" would be required. Typcially, for regular flatwork (3 1/2") you can take your total sf and divide by 81 in a perfect world for your yards needed, but I would use 75 is the number to divide to make sure you have enough. Or use 81, but round up.

You obviously know a lot more about concrete than I do but why do you use 81 and 75 to divide by. 81 corresponds to 4" thick and 75 corresponds to 4.35" but why not just Length X Width X Thickness in ft divided by 27. You can always round up or just order 10% extra. Just wondering.

[barbarian]

Originally Posted by Gottogo49

You obviously know a lot more about concrete than I do but why do you use 81 and 75 to divide by. 81 corresponds to 4" thick and 75 corresponds to 4.35" but why not just Length X Width X Thickness in ft divided by 27. You can always round up or just order 10% extra. Just wondering.

Just a quick easy way for us to quickly calculate a job that we are not physically looking at. Most jobs usually average 4" even if the forms are touching the ground on the exterior. If you knew how many times customers came up 1/4 yard short. Then a 1 yrd minimum delivery and a short load fee now added in because we had to deliver 2 partial loads cost about an extra $175 where an extra $30-50 from the start would've covered it more than easily. For example: 10 x 30 patio is 300sf. My calculation says (300/81= 3.7 yrds) (300/75=4yrds) or (10x30x.29167=1050/27= 3.24yrds). You might could try 3.5 yards if you are really concentrating on keeping it perfectly level, but usually 4yards would be the safe bet and waste a 1/3-1/4 yards or pour a little extra piece or something if your brain won't let you waste something you paid for. It is just too hard to use a calculation based upon perfection in the world of concrete and dirt work and definitely costly if you get it wrong.

[Salty]

Originally Posted by barbarian

Just a quick easy way for us to quickly calculate a job that we are not physically looking at. Most jobs usually average 4" even if the forms are touching the ground on the exterior. If you knew how many times customers came up 1/4 yard short. Then a 1 yrd minimum delivery and a short load fee now added in because we had to deliver 2 partial loads cost about an extra $175 where an extra $30-50 from the start would've covered it more than easily. For example: 10 x 30 patio is 300sf. My calculation says (300/81= 3.7 yrds) (300/75=4yrds) or (10x30x.29167=1050/27= 3.24yrds). You might could try 3.5 yards if you are really concentrating on keeping it perfectly level, but usually 4yards would be the safe bet and waste a 1/3-1/4 yards or pour a little extra piece or something if your brain won't let you waste something you paid for. It is just too hard to use a calculation based upon perfection in the world of concrete and dirt work and definitely costly if you get it wrong.

Their's a 3-yard minimum here. That gets real expensive....real quick.

[Salty]

I've got the job lined up to be done in a week or so. Now, my wife is wonderin' if the carport slab can be 'capped' so it will "look like the driveway". GEEZ...........it never ends.

Any thoughts?

[Bluechip]

Originally Posted by Salty

I've got the job lined up to be done in a week or so. Now, my wife is wonderin' if the carport slab can be 'capped' so it will "look like the driveway". GEEZ...........it never ends.

Any thoughts?

Yeah....just bust out another thousand and cap it. When it's all finished you will be glad you did...

[Salty]

Originally Posted by Bluechip

Yeah....just bust out another thousand and cap it. When it's all finished you will be glad you did...

I checked on the 'net and got mixed reviews as to whether or not a 'cap' will hold up. Have you done this or know someone who did, Chip? I'm referring to pouring 2-3" over the existing slab.

[fishinpox]

Originally Posted by Salty

I checked on the 'net and got mixed reviews as to whether or not a 'cap' will hold up. Have you done this or know someone who did, Chip? I'm referring to pouring 2-3" over the existing slab.

i did it on a remodel around thanksgiving the finisher stubbed a few pieces of rebar to keep from the overlay from sliding then rolled on a coat of bonding agent, they call it "milk" . just lay some slate on the porch

[Bluechip]

Originally Posted by Salty

I checked on the 'net and got mixed reviews as to whether or not a 'cap' will hold up. Have you done this or know someone who did, Chip? I'm referring to pouring 2-3" over the existing slab.

My uncle has a house built on piers since the hurricane. He poured a slab underneath his house for parking, patio/party area but the finisher was lacking on skills and it had a 1" 1/2 dip in the middle of the slab, so everytime it rained with a strong wind it looked like a lake under his home.

He layed over his with 3" of concrete but the finisher put down some type of bonding agent before pouring and he has had no problems. This slab/cap is about 3 years old and he parks on it.