trotline crabbing

[keakar]

Originally Posted by AceArcher

just put together some 3/4 pvc pipe and run it out of a boat holder on your boat.. or however you can secure it to you boat.. .MAKE SURE ITS SECURED... your line will get hung up and there will be some pressure put on this thing.

the key is you want the prop stick to be "level" with the water and about 3-4 inches above the water level ..

google up prop stick picture for crabbing.. that will give you loads of ideas.

keep it minimal.. the fancier it is.. the more likely it is that stuff is gonna get hung up on it... simple is better in this case.

more questions, I see lots of variations on the prop sticks as far as how high the outside post goes. I figure the line will always stay tight against it because its under pressure from forward motion so I "assume" all that is needed is 2-3" at the most to keep the line from sliding off the end correct?

I see some prop sticks have skirts on them. I "assume" the skirt is there only to spook the crab into letting go before it goes over the prop stick correct? and what are your thoughts about if this is worth having.

also I saw one guy had it set up to catch the crabs for him by putting a fixed net right under the prop stick and it seamed to work well. have you ever seen or done it that way with some form of net or a box you just empty at the end of the line so you just drive the boat and don't have to work the net?

[AceArcher]

Originally Posted by keakar

more questions, I see lots of variations on the prop sticks as far as how high the outside post goes. I figure the line will always stay tight against it because its under pressure from forward motion so I "assume" all that is needed is 2-3" at the most to keep the line from sliding off the end correct?

also I see some have skirts on them. I "assume" the skirt is there only to spook the crab into letting go before it goes over the prop stick correct?

I saw one guy had it set up to catch the crabs for him by putting the net right under the prop stick and it seamed to work, sorta. have you ever seen or done it that way with some form of net or a box you just empty at the end of the line?

those that have nets built into the system under the prop stick are considered to be "auto" dippers... im not really a big fan of em... seems like they loose a lot of crabs... but a lot of commercial guys use the heck outa them.

make your line using slip knots and you wont have to worry about the flaps (they are there for people using snoods on their line (dangle lines of the main line which are a royal pain in the *****)).

the "posts" only need to be maybe an two inches tall on each side... anything more is a personal choice.... just dont make them so tall that its hard to get the line off them quickly... a lot of time you have to put the line on and off real quick... so you dont want it to be difficult.

[keakar]

got it, thanks

[keakar]

ok I built my prop stick and im quite pleased with its strength and simplicity so I posted the picks here: http://www.saltycajun.com/forum/album.php?albumid=602

if anyone has a jonboat they are thinking about doing this to and don't want to drill holes in the boat then these pics might help them.

my motor has the screw clamp holes in the motor mount so I just used those as a mounting point and not one single hole needed to be drill in the boat anywhere or any clamps needed to be attached.

it attaches by sliding in and twisting into place for a snug tight fit

materials used:

one 10ft length 1 1/4" pvc grey conduit - cost $4 @ home depot
one long radius 1 1/4" 90* pvc grey conduit fitting - cost $1.25 @ home depot
one 1 1/2" pvc "T" fitting - cost $2 @ home depot
one 1 1/2" pvc flat end cap that fits inside the fittings (drill out a 3/8" hole for bolt in center) - cost $2.30
one 1 1/4" pvc "T" fitting - cost $1.60 @ home depot
one 1 1/4" pvc 90* fitting - cost $1.25 @ home depot
one 1 1/4" pvc flat end cap that fits inside the fittings (drill out a 3/8" hole for bolt in center) - cost $1.80
one 1 1/4" pvc 45* fitting - cost $1.30 @ ace hardware
two 2" stainless steel 3/8" bolts 2" long - cost $3.35 @ ace hardware
two 3/8" SS lock nuts - cost $1.44 @ ace hardware
two 3/8" SS washers - cost $0.40 @ ace hardware
two 3/8" SS oversized washers - cost $0.80 @ ace hardware
four #12 SS round head Phillips screws - cost $1 @ ace hardware

total cost for everything = $22.50

[keakar]

new motor didn't have the screw clamp holes so I had to redo the way it mounts but theres always going to be differences in any application but the pricables are the same for a slip it quick connect fitting and drill a hole for a pin to hold it in place from coming loose

[Ed32]

i think i'll stick to my hand lines and crab traps. but i really liked their net. does anyone know where i can buy one like that. what material do ya'll think the webbing was made of?

[keakar]

Originally Posted by Ed32

i think i'll stick to my hand lines and crab traps. but i really liked their net. does anyone know where i can buy one like that. what material do ya'll think the webbing was made of?

I hear ya, I found the crab trotline is not for just up north, it works around here too, and it works well (after you get used to how to do it and learn the process) so to each his own.

the point for me was its a lot less work for an old man and I wont have a sore back when im done, not having to get in the water is a bonus and you can cover a larger area presumably catching more crabs a lot faster so that's why im learning the process, plus its fun.

[keakar]

little update after having used this crab trotline a half dozen times,

- the shovel handle is just too short, I have no reach to get crabs that let go early.

- the dip net needs a bolt or hook on the other end to catch the line for putting it over the pick stick but it cant be hooked shape or it WILL snag at some point and pull out of your hand. I took a regular heavy duty garage wall hook hanger for tools and bent it so it sticks up 90* so its easy to release without snagging.

- you would think a bright yellow bullet shaped float 10" long would be easy to find but if you get a hundred yards away the dang thing is nearly invisible so bright orange might have been a better color choice.

- down here chicken necks only last one trip because croakers and garfish with leave nothing but bone left after about 3 hours in the water and only use the necks so take off as much of the skin and fat as you can, they float the bait off the bottom and hurt your efforts.

- it needs a good 10-15 minute soak time between raises so you aren't overworking it and wasting time raising empty lines. so it gets boring, bring a radio and an umbrella or top for the boat so you aren't baking and I bring a fishing pole to fill time between runs with a few casts here and there.

- a good start anchor is key and it may be better to use a regular digger style anchor to secure it first and then just a dead weight anchor on the tail end for tension. also when making anchors don't use plastic buckets as the round sided anchors don't hold as well and slide too easy along the bottom. make your own concrete anchors more like square pavers, 9x9x4 is about 12-13 lbs anchor and just right.

- if using a snap hook on the anchor make sure its connected to a few links of chain so it flexes and cant bind and unhook itself. (happened to me twice just connected straight to an eye bolt mounted in concrete)

- tide is key so you need a moving tide to bring the crabs to your line, you cant catch more then a handful that are in the near area otherwise.

- and lastly there aren't that many crabs around like past years so you cant just go anywhere and expect to catch, you have to go where there are reports of people catching crabs or where you know there are good crab populations to have success.

[keakar]

Originally Posted by keakar

- the shovel handle is just too short, I have no reach to get crabs that let go early.

forgot to add this on the end of that sentence:

its better (and cheaper) to just buy a 2x2 at the box store for $1.50 and round the corners and sand it smooth, then you can cut it to just the size you find comfortable, for me that's right at 6 1/2 ft long

[keakar]

Originally Posted by Ed32

i think i'll stick to my hand lines and crab traps. but i really liked their net. does anyone know where i can buy one like that. what material do ya'll think the webbing was made of?

sorry, I never answered your question in my first reply.

look here and it shows you how to make a wire net from scratch or using chicken wire (I prefer chicken wire)

http://www.tidalfish.com/forums/show...Net-a-tutorial

and I strongly suggest using a 2x2 for the handle so its lighter and you can make it any length you want to.



another update:

been trying this in freshwater canals and had some success (its the only place that has crabs around here) but getting hung up in stumps most of the time.

I learned this method used in freshwater canals is very difficult without being hung up on stumps all the time and it might be best to start the line tied to a specific marked tree or a marked anchor spot that you know has a stump free clearing to lay your line in. you cant just drop it anywhere or you might loose it because when raising the line will be pulled side to side as the boat doesn't go straight and this gets the line pulled up into and under stumps and branches a lot.

im also cutting my line in half from 300 ft to 150 ft for the same reason, with a shorter line it is a lot easier to find a stump free area to fish plus by splitting the line in two I can fish two different banks or different locations and the time it takes to do this means there will be no reason to have wait times between raises so I can continue fishing non-stop.

lastly since im using 12 lbs concrete anchors I reduced my line chain weights from 3 lbs down to 1 1/2 lbs because the anchors had a tendency to slide a little each time as the pick stick was trying to lift the chain weights up and over, less weight on the chains will solve this but I think I would have to add some line weights to the middle of the line if I was fishing in tide flows in the marsh but im still learning as I go.

I also find 8-10 ft of water seams to be a good depth im catching best at, most likely due to the angle of the line as its coming up and I think its common sense obvious slightly stained water is best so the crabs hold on longer but you still need to see about 18" deep to know you have crabs to dip

[keakar]

ok, heres the results from the adjustments I made:

the line chains/weights should be 10% of the weight of your anchors so if using 20 lbs anchors use 2 lbs line weights and if using 10 or 15 lbs anchors use 1 or 1 1/2 lbs chain for line weights.

also it is better to use the smaller 3/16" x 3/4" chain for the line weights so they go over the pick stick much smoother and easier causing less tendency to pull on the anchors and pull hard on the line then the larger size 1/4" x 1" chains do. I tghink the 3/16" chain just has a smoother action to it that is less likely to do anything that might spook the crabs.

poured concrete anchors are cheap to make and do work fine but use a short few links of chain set into it so your line clip cant get pinned if it gets turned around and unhook itself.

poured concrete anchors may slide in soft mud or hard sand bottoms so at least one 5 pound digging style fluke anchor would be the best choice for the beginning end of the line and just use a dead weight anchor for the tail end of the line. if fishing freshwater canals it might be best to start your line tied off to a specific tree or stump in a spot you know is clear from stumps and trees to get the line tangled on.

I finally found a spot that has some crabs and current moving so I caught 2 bushels in 4 hours and found bait spacing at 12 feet was just too close when you are catching on every bait. it would be best to make sure they are spaced at 15 ft minimum spacing. I also found you don't want more then one crab in your net or they get out. what they say about water holding the crab in the basket isn't true and if he wants to get out he crawls out using the wire so the water doesn't hold him in unless he is content to stay put. several times I had 2 or 3 crabs in the net and most time all but one would get out before I dumped it. it was raining carbs a few times as I tried to get it over the side before they crawled out lol. you need time to dump the crab after every bait and get reset for the next one.

using 2 lines worked out great and there was no waiting time between raises needed but in this case they were biting so good I think I could have only used one line to catch the same amount and my bait may have lasted longer. after 4 hours there was only bone left.

I realize most people aren't interested in this but a few might be and its info I would want to hear if I were planning to try this.

I did run into some guys that said they tried trotline crabbing but said they went back to set nets because it didn't work out for them but they were amazed how well it was working for me. I guess they were doing it wrong and I did notice they had a pick stick very close to the boat so the crabs may have been dropping off seeing the boat coming at em. they fished the same area as me and I had 2 bushels and they had about 3 dozen set nets with only 2 dozen crabs to show for it and said the bait kept being stolen off of the traps .

oh and lastly I found the floats always tend to hit the pick stick at some point so its best to use use the egg shaped ones so they can go over the pick stick without hanging up if need be.

[swamp snorkler]

Originally Posted by keakar

ok, heres the results from the adjustments I made:

the line chains/weights should be 10% of the weight of your anchors so if using 20 lbs anchors use 2 lbs line weights and if using 10 or 15 lbs anchors use 1 or 1 1/2 lbs chain for line weights.

also it is better to use the smaller 3/16" x 3/4" chain for the line weights so they go over the pick stick much smoother and easier causing less tendency to pull on the anchors and pull hard on the line then the larger size 1/4" x 1" chains do. I tghink the 3/16" chain just has a smoother action to it that is less likely to do anything that might spook the crabs.

poured concrete anchors are cheap to make and do work fine but use a short few links of chain set into it so your line clip cant get pinned if it gets turned around and unhook itself.

poured concrete anchors may slide in soft mud or hard sand bottoms so at least one 5 pound digging style fluke anchor would be the best choice for the beginning end of the line and just use a dead weight anchor for the tail end of the line. if fishing freshwater canals it might be best to start your line tied off to a specific tree or stump in a spot you know is clear from stumps and trees to get the line tangled on.

I finally found a spot that has some crabs and current moving so I caught 2 bushels in 4 hours and found bait spacing at 12 feet was just too close when you are catching on every bait. it would be best to make sure they are spaced at 15 ft minimum spacing. I also found you don't want more then one crab in your net or they get out. what they say about water holding the crab in the basket isn't true and if he wants to get out he crawls out using the wire so the water doesn't hold him in unless he is content to stay put. several times I had 2 or 3 crabs in the net and most time all but one would get out before I dumped it. it was raining carbs a few times as I tried to get it over the side before they crawled out lol. you need time to dump the crab after every bait and get reset for the next one.

using 2 lines worked out great and there was no waiting time between raises needed but in this case they were biting so good I think I could have only used one line to catch the same amount and my bait may have lasted longer. after 4 hours there was only bone left.

I realize most people aren't interested in this but a few might be and its info I would want to hear if I were planning to try this.

I did run into some guys that said they tried trotline crabbing but said they went back to set nets because it didn't work out for them but they were amazed how well it was working for me. I guess they were doing it wrong and I did notice they had a pick stick very close to the boat so the crabs may have been dropping off seeing the boat coming at em. they fished the same area as me and I had 2 bushels and they had about 3 dozen set nets with only 2 dozen crabs to show for it and said the bait kept being stolen off of the traps .

oh and lastly I found the floats always tend to hit the pick stick at some point so its best to use use the egg shaped ones so they can go over the pick stick without hanging up if need be.

I am, this a good report.

[keakar]

Originally Posted by swamp snorkler

I am, this a good report.

thanks, I found this is a great system that works well but it has a learning curve to it like with everything.

by the way, for reference as to the things im doing:

im fishing all by myself using a 17x52 flatboat with side console steering and the pick stick is about 2 inches above the water attached to the transom so this puts the crabs about 3-4" under water at the point where im dipping them about 24" in front of the pick stick.

if the float gets hung on the pick stick, trying to go either under or over it, it pulls slack in your anchor so you need reposition and reset your anchor to stretch it back out again which often makes any crabs on the line let go so its a real PITA when that happens.

about the only times my float gets stuck on the pick stick is where I come in to start raising and im too close for the float to pass on the outside of the pick stick and it gets caught under it and dragged a little as I am concentrating on catching the line and putting it into the pick stick

[keakar]

just thought I would add an update to this thread.

I have been having regular success (now that I fish where they actually have some crabs lol) and I use two lines with 12 necks each spaced at 15 ft apart so that's 24 necks or baits out total.

I get my chicken necks at the grocery store by the case, its $10 for a case and a case has an average of 150-160 necks so I strip off the fat (fat makes the bait float off of the bottom) and I bag them up one dozen per bag for the freezer because that's how many baits I have on each line. if you try to buy necks in small packs they are 5 times more expensive.

I first used marks on my line but they wear off fast and cant be seen so I tied a knot on the line every 15 ft so I know where to put the baits and have your line baited before you go, trying to do it on the spot is just a PITA and wastes time on the water. I don't know if line color matters but I use the dark green trot line line just in case they can see it.

sometimes if the bite slows you have caught whats in the area and need to move your lines but this doesn't mean you have to move more then a few hundred yards. if you have tide moving in a relatively confined area then you seldom need to move because the tide brings the crabs to you.

for the anchor lines I used 50ft of 1/4" nylon rope with brass swivel snaps on each end and a float tied in the middle (25ft on each side) and it clips onto 2ft of 1"x3/4" galvanized chains on each end of the crab line. to attach the crab line to the chains I used a loop of string I hook onto swivels tied on the ends of the crab line so the line is free to twist and untwist without it being a problem (it will want to twist on you so it needs swivels).

I usually catch about a 1/2 bushel to 2/3rds bushel in 2-3 hours and sometimes a full bushel. certainly not killing them by any means but its more then enough for me to eat

using two lines lets me try a different spot to "search" for the better location where they are biting. when I find a good spot (which isn't too hard) I will set both lines about 100 yards apart so I idle from one line over to the next which leaves a soak time of about 10 minutes since I have to run the other line first before idling over to start the next one. this seams to be just about right timing since I pick up 1-3 crabs on each raise out of 12 necks.

using digging style anchors on the end you start your raise from seams to be a necessity in our soft bottoms so just dead weight anchors (unless 25 lbs) will move on you too much and you will have to keep readjusting the line.

after you set the line out go straight back and raise it so its laid out and stretched out correctly, always seams its a little wonky when first set.

I bought big artillery shell looking floats thinking they would be better to see but I think using two or three of the small round or egg shaped floats would have been just as easy to see and cheaper.

finally when making your dipping net don't put the wire on the outside of the loop as it may not look grabby but it catches the line like Velcro.

and I find 6-10 ft of water and more better 8-10 ft is the depth you want to try to fish, any shallower and the crabs let go too soon.

I hope this info helps someone and this is a fun simple and easy way to crab and for someone like me with a bad back its the only way I can go crabbing without suffering with back pain after.

much thanks to AceArcher for taking the time to answer all my questions (and I had a lot of em lol) and through PMs with him he got me links to things and taught me what he knows about it enough for me to be able to do this

[AceArcher]

Glad you were able to out it all together and make it happen!

[keakar]

Originally Posted by AceArcher

Glad you were able to out it all together and make it happen!

mainly because you were there to bounce ideas to, it gave me the incentive to learn something new knowing i had a teacher.

even on slow days i can eek out 2 or 3 dozen by staying out 4 or 5 hours, heck im retired so i got nothing better to do as long as i get to go home with good eats

we actually used to do about the same thing with my grampa when i was very little. we used to just stretch a string across the canal and tie to a tree on each end and one guy was paddling the boat as another guy raised the trotline by hand and dips, or i would dip, but you needed 2-3 people and a lot more work to do it the old way

[marty f]

NICE!!

Thanks Keakar

[keakar]

its really easy too do it this way once you get everything set up but driving without messing up takes getting used to

I think its just like riding a bike, it looks really easy until you try to do it yourself, then you see its more tricky then you thought it was to get just the right feel for it so you don't get in trouble.

you just need to do it where there isnt wave action (lifts and drops the line making them let go) or cross winds (the boat keeps crossing on top of the line spooking them and making them let go)

I don't find the shadow over the water is that big of a problem but it does have "some" effect and more so if they aren't very hungry

[Crawl79]

My uncle lives near Baltimore and this is what they do. One of these days I want to make a trip and have him show me.

[keakar]

Originally Posted by Crawl79

My uncle lives near Baltimore and this is what they do. One of these days I want to make a trip and have him show me.

there are dozens of videos showing it on youtube, type in "trotline crabbing"

its one of those things where the process is open to adjustments so you do what fits you and your boat the best and if you do it all of have a partner