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Boating Talk For discussion of everything related to boats and motors |
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#1
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TM problems...Part 2
TM only ran very slowly. After a short while I noticed that a little water was coming out of the motor. Something was leaking allowing water to get inside..... I gave up using it. When I took the motor apart, I found some water inside and the wire that connects to the brushes was damaged and almost broken off on one of the brushes. See before and after pictures of the wire. I ordered all seals, o-rings, brushes and new bearings for $33....not too expensive. After placing the parts order, went back outside to look at the motor some more. I tried to remove the bearing that fits on the end of the shaft by the brushes. I tried supporting under the bearing and then tapping [hitting] on the end of the shaft. The bearing did not want to slide off. Help...... anyone have experience taking a small bearing off like in the picture? The bearing is bad, and has to be replaced. Could this be a "shrink" fit type bearing? By this I mean was the bearing heated to make it expand to allow it to be slipped on the shaft? I guess I could cut the bearing off or try hitting harder on the shaft to see if it would "slide" off. Maybe try to heat the bearing to loosen it up. Soak the bearing with penetrating. Thanks for any help. |
#2
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Maybe a small puller ...... You may have to build one
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#3
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Heat it with a torch then punch it off.
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#4
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I'm sure it's an interference fit, maybe only .0005" tight just to keep the inner race from spinning on the shaft. The rest of the shaft sticking out past the bearing, get some real fine emory cloth or scotch brite and clean up the shaft where the bearing is going to slide off, then use some Kroil Oil or even WD 40 and soak that area. If you going to tap on the end of the shaft, use a brass punch so you don't put a little mushroom flare on the end of the shaft. And like said, may need a little heat....quick and no heat on shaft if possible, doesn't take much to get that inner race to "grow". Use some scotch brite on the armature area where the brushes contact before assembly too.
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#5
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Quote:
I have some crookus (sp) cloth and some emory cloth so I can clean up the shaft. I am a little worried about the armature surface. There is some mild pitting on a few of the plates. It will take more than some scotch brite to "smooth" it up some. I just had a light bulb moment...... I wonder if I can put the armature shaft in a drill to spin it so I can sand the surface. I need to go outside and start the soaking on the bearing. Heating the bearing might be the key to getting it off. |
#6
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Yep, the drill idea will work fine as long as you can get it to turn pretty true with not much wobble. Just like spinning it in a lathe, really don't have to spin it fast either.
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#7
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After using my neighbor's small torch several times over the past couple years, I bought one for myself. Before heating the bearing, I filed the very end of the shaft to be sure it was not "mushroomed" from the hitting I did to the end of the shaft a few days back.
I got that bearing almost red hot, but gentling tapping on it did not get it to budge. wed68 said: Quote:
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#8
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Is trolling motor back up and running now?
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#9
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No.....
After putting in new bearings, seals, gaskets and o-rings. The motor still leaked in water and bunt up the new brushes. I took it to the shop for repairs. |
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