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Inshore Saltwater Fishing Discussion Discuss inshore fishing, tackle, and tactics here! |
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#1
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trolling motor
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#2
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Nothin to it............4 holes in the hull for mounting............well, the wiring is up to you. It's not hard, but theres a few ways to do it...........I'd hard wire it.....those plugs suck in the saltwater environment. Where you located?? I've got nothin to do tomorrow..............Tim
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#3
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longcast,im looking for that same trolling motor...where did you get it and how much did you have to spend?thanks......Darren
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#4
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Easy Install
Its easy, make you use ss hardwear and HEAT SHRINK your conntections.
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#5
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TM
If you hard wire make sure and put an inline fuse block between batterys and motor. Also use stailess connectors and coat them w/ silicon and then add heat shrink.
Make sure that any switches that you use are marine grade .automotive switches wont last a year in the salt. After you make up the wiring on the switch(s) coat all connections w/ silicon. Use a good grade of Clear silicon , that way you can still see the conections and be able to know if you have corrosion anywhere. Make sure and use the biggest wire you can for your connections from batt. to motor. Make sure and use stainless bolts , washers and stainless tef-loc nuts to mount the motor bracket. |
#6
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Instead of covering the connections with silicon, have any of you guys used "Corrosion X"?
If so, how well does it work for protecting electrical connections? My boat had a trolling motor pulg-in connector but I started having trouble after getting a larger TM. The mechanic at D H P Enterprise checked my new TM and said it was fine. He told me that I should hard wire the TM to keep from having "connection" problems. I found that my TM wire had another connection just under the front deck of the boat. Wire size.......I think you need # 10 wire [or maybe # 8....which is next size larger]. |
#7
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I like to use 6 or 8 gauge wire for a trolling motor.
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#8
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TM
corrosion x doesn't seal the connection like silicon. it is a corrosion prohibitor till it breaks down. so is wd40.
if i was not on a tight budget when wiring a TM i would go to a welding supply house and buy small welding cable to connect the TM to the battery. this is a fine stranded wire that will have allmost 0 voltage drop . It is not very exspensive and will work alot better than stranded or solid wire that is designed to carry 110v and higher. again don't forget a 12v. circut breaker in line . circut breaker trips and can be reset unlike fuse that blows and has to be replaced. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Quote:
Good info Eman, The only thing i would add is dielectric grease on the connectons. We used it all the time on underwater sensors on ours Dredges. |
#12
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THANKS
thanks for all the help.when i do get the boat back or i pick it up, who wants to go fishing.first sat i have not fished in months.may go to cal point in the am and fish the bank.once again thanks for the help.
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#13
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I have that same trolling motor on my Nautic Star. Mine has a little problem though. I was fishing today and it will work for a little while and then just stop working. I thought maybe my switch was bad so I unscrewed it from the deck and cut the wires and wired it direct but I still have the same problem. Has any one had this problem? It probably has a short somewhere I just have to trace it down. Great choice for that boat Longcast. I love mine. Plenty strong enough and I can fish hard for 3 days in wind and current without charging.
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#14
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It still works fine Salty, I think it may go into the Smithsonian when I get rid of it.
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