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General Discussion (Everything Else) Discuss anything that doesn't belong in any other forums here. |
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#1
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Pole Barn Question for people that built/build pole barns
Has anyone done this? Or what is your thoughts? |
#2
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what about all of the wooden posts used for bulkheads/ fishing piers/ etc.....?
i think you will be fine. |
#3
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They under water and mostly void of 02 . With the tide that's a problem that happens but not even close to what he's asking
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#4
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isnt this the same concept as a wooden fence post?
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#5
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yea, same concept as wooden fence posts. I replace wooden fence posts it seems like every year which is why i originally started looking into this
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#6
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Pole Barn Question for people that built/build pole barns
If you are going to have a slab, why build a pole barn? Pole barns are meant to have no concrete. Steel frames are not that expensive in a 30x50.
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#7
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Look into post protectors. I have a 30 x 60 built by mitchell...They used treated posts with post protectors. The protectors are at least 1/8" plastic covering that goes up the post, they trimmed the protectors down to height right before the concrete was poured. I believed the posts are guaranteed over 25 years. The protectors are like a plastic sleeve that fits snugly on the post in the ground.
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#8
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That's what I was thinking. Why not use steel and have a stronger building without the hassle?
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#9
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I built a pole barn exactly the way that you are describing. At first I was not going to pour a slab but later, before the barn was totally finished, I dug footings and poured the slab. I used real telephone poles, creosote. It's 25 years old now and from what I an tell, solid as a rock.
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#10
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Quote:
I have 2 friends who recently had pole barns put up. They both have that plastic wrap at the bottom up about 8" above the slab. OP, Dig your holes, drop 1'-18" of gravel in it, set your treated poles with the plastic wrap then cement you will be fine. If your poles are below the water line you will have problems no matter what you put in the ground. |
#11
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I built pole barn 8 years ago. HATE IT. Wished I had spent the extra money on all steel like my father in law. Doesn't seal well against critters because builder didn't use a z-flashing (and didn't tell me it was an option), always have dirt inside the building from ants at the corner posts (i paid extra for plastic post guards), and I'm always concerned about the wood posts and how I'll fix them if they go bad, and I have a water leak at a corner. If I had gone all steel, would not have any worries.
If you go with a pole barn, DO use the plastic post guards, DO install z-channel, DO ensure they slope the concrete at the doors so rain doesn't flood you building, DO NOT use the foil insulation, DO use the 6 inch batting, DO make sure they install your Man Door properly so it does't leak and ROT. DO NOT Pay in full until you make sure all of the above are done to your satisfaction. I would not use the builder that starts with an M on I-10 on the west side of Lafayette. |
#12
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Quote:
built a barn the same as you described earlier, even poured slab after. this was 10+ years ago and it is fine.. |
#13
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Mallet Buildings will probably sell you there post. It comes with a 5' plastic sleeve on one end.
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#14
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Couldn't you dip the posts in tar where they will be under ground?
I'd think a steel building would be cheaper though |
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I am also getting prices on pole barn and steel. Reed's quoted me 15,500 on at 30X40X10 with 1 entry, 10X8 roll up,8X8 roll up and slab. the steel wasn't that much different in price. The price started at 13,500. The advertisement stated 12,999. I asked them why th price diffence and they stated metal had just suddenly went up.
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