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  #21  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:05 PM
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Latt, I would still get the a/c checked out.
Just make sure to check/change the filter before someone comes to check it.
As hot as it is right now, you need to make sure it is doing all it can.
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  #22  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:07 PM
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1400 sf built in 1962 3 ton central air gas water heater . bill is running about $240 during this summer. AC shuts off around midnight for the first time daily
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  #23  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:17 PM
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I have a 30 year old ranch style house w/ 2000 square feet and a 10 SEER, 5 ton a/c. The house has the same insulation it was built with.
Bill runs around $120 to $150 in the summer.
I have a programmable thermostat that goes up to 80 deg. at 7 am and starts to bring temp. down slowly starting at 3 pm till it gets to 72 at 10 pm.
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  #24  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:36 PM
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House was built in 54. Center match everything. Newspaper for insulation....just pit a new roof during my addition. Used that fire and ice insulating tar paper stuff cause I did a roof over on most of the house. Pit 2 wurly birds at the highest point. My bill is down to 300 from 400
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  #25  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:36 PM
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I am not going to complain any about my bill after seeing what some of you pay. I am all electric and have a wife and daughter that thinks every light in the house needs to be on when they are home. My house is 2380 sq. ft. heated and my bill have never topped $200. When I built my house in '05, I put plywood, insulation, plywood and then sheet rock. I also have 10 inches of blown in insulation in the attic.


Warren
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:43 PM
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Question for the contractors: On a newer brick home, is it standard to put the fiberglass roll insulation in the exterior walls? someone told me that that is not standard practice

Reason for my asking is that when I open up my cabinets they seem to be warm perhaps from the heat of the bricks in the sun all day???
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  #27  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaLatt View Post
Question for the contractors: On a newer brick home, is it standard to put the fiberglass roll insulation in the exterior walls? someone told me that that is not standard practice

Reason for my asking is that when I open up my cabinets they seem to be warm perhaps from the heat of the bricks in the sun all day???

I have the blown in throughout my house and interior and exterior walls. This was my preference not necessarily standard practice, but we keep the thermostat on 80 during the day and about 77 at night and stay very comfortable.


Warren


Warren
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  #28  
Old 09-02-2011, 05:32 AM
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i wish all my bills would go to my spam folder. lol
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2011, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mriguy View Post
I just choose to not look at the bill, made the mistake of opening it one time, saw it was $500+ and haven't looked since. That was last year. CLECO sucks bad with the fuel surcharges
That's the killer right there. The dang fuel surcharges. Not for those mine, would run about 225 a month.
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2011, 06:44 AM
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Latt, call card company and ask them to remove from credik the late pay. Good payers can have this done a couple times a year. E bill was $250 this month,add $700-800 for chevron and it realli chaps my A@&!!!
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  #31  
Old 09-02-2011, 07:04 AM
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man i must have it good, two central units, one is 1 yr old and 5800sf living and kept at 70* all the time and cost around 350.00, keep your filters clean change em once a month...
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  #32  
Old 09-02-2011, 07:24 AM
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My parents house 3700sf built in 05 3ton and 5ton units keep it on about 72 bill runs under $300. Well insulated brick home though. My house ain't insulated for crap and my windows are old style.
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  #33  
Old 09-02-2011, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaLatt View Post
Question for the contractors: On a newer brick home, is it standard to put the fiberglass roll insulation in the exterior walls? someone told me that that is not standard practice

Reason for my asking is that when I open up my cabinets they seem to be warm perhaps from the heat of the bricks in the sun all day???
I don't use batts anywhere except I sound proof all interior walls with it and under catwalks in the attic where it's hard to reach when they blow the attic, most houses we use blown fiberglass, blown cellouse, or blown rockwool. Fiberglass batts are fine IF installed properly but they come in standard widths so when stub cavities exceed that width or need to be trimmed when smaller they get installed wrong. Most contractors don't tape the seams on the home wrap( tyvek) I do it always. I seal around all doors and windows with a rubber flashing tape, foam the cracks . I try to build it as tight as possible , it cost very little more and doesn't take much mire time
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  #34  
Old 09-02-2011, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinpox View Post
When I build my new house I will use a 16 seer 2 stage Hvac system , foil tyvek instead of regular white (extra r-value 1) , I will silicone my bottom plate to slab instead of the foam pad, tech shield foil backed roof decking, open cell foam insulation in walls and closed cell on rafters . Seal all hvac ducts and boots with mastic. We did this same setup on a house
that was 4200 sqft area and
The owner says the electric bill is under 300 a month in the summer. And this is with gas water heaters not electric
Pox I have this setup on my home, we have 3 AC's and 5400 sqft and my bill all summer has been around $350, this past month was $450. Not bad for a house this size. The camp however is a different story, the AC never turns off at the camp when we are there.
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  #35  
Old 09-02-2011, 08:35 AM
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My water, trash pick up, sewage, and electricity all comes in one bill with LUS here in lafayette. I put my thermostat on 75 during the day and 68 at night and my highest bill has been a little over $300
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  #36  
Old 09-02-2011, 08:47 AM
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Scuba check your plugs, sounds like the neighbor has their hair dryer plugged into yours...good luck.
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  #37  
Old 09-02-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckinchen View Post
Pox I have this setup on my home, we have 3 AC's and 5400 sqft and my bill all summer has been around $350, this past month was $450. Not bad for a house this size. The camp however is a different story, the AC never turns off at the camp when we are there.
I assume your camp is raised? How are the floor joist insulated? Look into a CLOSED CELL foam
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  #38  
Old 09-02-2011, 10:46 AM
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I used to get pissed at my old roommate because he would sit around all summer playing world of warcraft...not working...and keeping AC from 72-68 mid day while I was at work. The highest bill we had was 180 for a <1000sqft apt. They were old and the ac unit was as well. Worst is...since he didn't work he didnt want to pay his half...that doucher! I disconnect the electricity on him.
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  #39  
Old 09-02-2011, 10:52 AM
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My electric bill averages under 100 bucks a month in my small house.
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  #40  
Old 09-02-2011, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinpox View Post
I assume your camp is raised? How are the floor joist insulated? Look into a CLOSED CELL foam
It is raised (around 10 feet), I have regular insulation in the attic and I had someone come in and spray insulation on top of the regular insulation. As far as I know the floor area has no insulation, do you think that might be my issue?
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
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