Broadheads

[RatherBFishin]

Originally Posted by wtretrievers

Copied my post from a previous thread back in June, wish y'all could watch the Videos, it'll make you sick


I've got 2 bad experiences of what a mechanical will do shot at angle on a deer (one on video), not good .........& no doesn't happen all the time.

1st time........approx 120lb Doe 10 steps (maybe 7yds) I was approx 22' high, I shot & hit behind the shoulder at the top of the back along the outside edge of the backstrap.......PERFECT!!!!!!! You'd think The arrow hit it's mark then turned & came out just below the backstrap on the other side!!!!!!!!!! IT DID A U TURN!!!! The arrow actually went up on the exit side! Never even got close to vitals!!!!!!!Lost that one! Trailed forever with dog.

2nd time..........ON VIDEO!!!!, with a different type mechanical. 8pt approx 16" inside 165-170lbs quartering away at about 20 yds, arrow hit right behind back rib PERFECT!!!!!! You'd think!The arrow turned & came out the other side just in front of his hind quarter!!!!!!!!! IT DID A U TURN!!!! We watched this one in slow mo for 2 weeks straight & made me sick at my stomach every time!!!!!!!!

Now if you can imagine this....... 2 blade or three blade mechanical shot at a hard angle & the blades are in the right position when the tip goes in one blade will hit first & begin to open before the others & it's cutting through hair, flesh, muscle & sometimes bone before the other blade or blades or open or make contact which will make the backend of the arrow kick the opposite way!!!!!!!

I've killed my share with mechanicals (with some nasty entrance & exits!) & more of my share with fixed, after those 2 episodes you couldn't melt a mechanical & pour it on me! I've had my mishaps with fixed also, but mainly due to my fault. I've got over 70 whitetails under my belt with a bow, have hunted in some really awesome places over the years.

I have looked at the Rage, like the concept, not the same as the traditional mechanical, but just cant bring myself to do it!

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the info. What broadhead do you shoot?

[wtretrievers]

Originally Posted by RatherBFishin

Thanks for the info. What broadhead do you shoot?

Have tried em all!!!!! Not into the tinkering stage anymore! went back to the ol realiable thunderheads, theyre proven & easy to find!!!!

If I still tinkered like I used too I'd shoot the delta snuffers, that's one bad dude! You would be lucky to get one to fly right out of 6, I would spend hours & hours tuning them till I got em right.

[Feesherman]

Originally Posted by msu-tfrancois

There's nothing wrong with trying to help and give advice on this forum but u came off like a smarta s s insinuating that people who use mechanicals are either amateurs or don't know what they are doing...........

Nope, didn't state that, nor did I insinuate that. That is just the way you chose to interpret what I said. What I said was just that, not up for interpretation. Ya'll have at it, I'll just watch from the sidelines from now on.

[Is it October Yet]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Nope, didn't state that, nor did I insinuate that. That is just the way you chose to interpret what I said. What I said was just that, not up for interpretation. Ya'll have at it, I'll just watch from the sidelines from now on.

I'm not sure how they felt that you were trying to be a tool. What you said was fact as fact can get. Darn Mathews fanboys just mad cause Hoyt passed them up!

[RatherBFishin]

Ya'll go argue somewhere else

[wtretrievers]

Originally Posted by Is it October Yet

I'm not sure how they felt that you were trying to be a tool. What you said was fact as fact can get. Darn Mathews fanboys just mad cause Hoyt passed them up!

Hoyt???? BAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

[wtretrievers]

Just messin with ya Chad! Nowadays the competition is so stiff no one can afford to make an inferior bow, I shot Hoyt comp & 3d's only because that's who sponsored me, then It was a hard bow to keep tuned. I don't hear that about them anymore. Hoyt, Mathews, Bowtech are all good bows, just shoot what fits you!

[flounder_smacker]

I bought a bowtech allegiance In 07 and have bought a few bows since then but I keep going back to that bow. It just fits me the best. Bows nowadays are all good just have to find the one that fits you.

[Is it October Yet]

I have my eye on the Bowtech Invasion. Got one with my name on it at Chag's. I may have to have back surgery again which will mean two bow seasons in a row I will miss. It may come down to getting a crossbow cause I refuse to miss all of bow season. Bow season in MS is half the season and I'm itchin bbbbBbbbaaaaaaadddd.

To stay with the topic: Like women, I love all broadheads!!!

[msu-tfrancois]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Nope, didn't state that, nor did I insinuate that. That is just the way you chose to interpret what I said. What I said was just that, not up for interpretation. Ya'll have at it, I'll just watch from the sidelines from now on.

Look man I aint lookin for no enemies on this site and and everyone is entitled to their own opinion and i respect that...but there are guys on here that will bash on ppl for no reason and try to make the guy askin the question look stupid..if i misinterpreted your post than my apologies....

[msu-tfrancois]

Originally Posted by Is it October Yet

I have my eye on the Bowtech Invasion. Got one with my name on it at Chag's. I may have to have back surgery again which will mean two bow seasons in a row I will miss. It may come down to getting a crossbow cause I refuse to miss all of bow season. Bow season in MS is half the season and I'm itchin bbbbBbbbaaaaaaadddd.

To stay with the topic: Like women, I love all broadheads!!!

those invasions are pretty sweet my buddy works at a bowshop and just bought himself one....at first they had a lil shock in hand but now they all come with shock absorbers on the roller guard and it feels 100% better....shot it today matter of fact

[Gerald]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow. That is first and foremost. To properly broad head tune your bow you must learn what to do. Your field points are hittin the bull every time. You screw on your fixed heads and they don't hit the bull. To broadhead tune you move your rest. Put on your broad heads, shoot a bunch of em and get a good idea where they are going. Then, adjust your rest to get your field points flying to the same spot the broad heads were flying. Now that your field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot, THEN and only then do you move your sights back to the bullseye. Now you have tuned your bow and your field points and broadheads should now be on the bullseye!


Mechanical broadheads were invented for people who don't know how or won't learn how to tune their bows. On that note, there are a bunch of outfitters that will not allow you to shoot mechanicals. Don't even look for an elk hunting outfit that will allow you to shoot mechanicals!

Also, look up walk back tuning to learn how to properly tune your rest to get center shot.

I have been busy the past few days, so I just read this topic. After reading several things that IMO were incorrect or misleading statements, I got to thinking maybe I need to go back and try to learn some more about how to set up a bow and how to tune a bow. I just spent ~ 2 hours watching vidoes and reading stuff on bow tuning. Again, IMO, there is some false and misleading stuff on the Internet.

I have not been shooting a bow 30 years like Jude, only for 28 years....plus a few more, if you count my shooting as a kid.

This statement was probably not true 20+ years ago....due to poor quality of some broadheads made back then. Today, IMO this is a true statement:
Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow.

If your bow is set up correctly and you have the correct arrow for the bow .....the arrow will fly smooth and true to the target. Peroid.....end of statement. It does not matter if you have a field tip, fixed broadhead or mechanical attached to the arrow. If you do not agree.....fine, we will just disagree.

I am a little confused about the second highlighted statement above....."broadhead tuning". If you adjust your rest or anyother part of the bow to make the broadhead arrow hit the bulls eye......then if you shoot a field tip arrow it will then hit at a different spot. If this is the case, does that not tell you there is something "WRONG" with the setup of the bow?

If everything is setup properly, the only time a broadhead will fly a little different from a field tip is when there is a fairly strong wind blowing. When the wind is blowing a fixed broadhead arrow sometime gets blown or "floats" more that a field tip. This is because the fixed broadhead has more surface area to catch the wind.

I have always used paper tunning to check how my bow is shooting the arrows. If the arrow cuts the paper with what is called a "bullet hole".....you are very close to perfect. But because you shoot a bullet hole at one distance it does not mean you are finished. You need to check the paper tune holes at several distances [say 3, 6 and 10 yards] because the arrow flight might not be stabalized at all distances.

Walk back tuning is another way to check if your arrow is flying properly. But paper tuning will also show you if the arrow is flying off to the side. Both paper tuning and "walk back tuning" rely on the shooter to use proper shooting technique. I always shoot 2 or 3 arrows to check what the paper tears looks like before making any adjustment to the bow.

But before doing any paper tunning shooting, there are things to check on the bow setup. Are the cam timing correct? Are the cams straight and working properly? Is the "Till" measurment the same for each bow limb? Also, need to check to see if your broadheads/incerts pass the spin test.

So in closing......why settle for your bow shooting broadheads almost the same as field tips.

[Feesherman]

Originally Posted by Gerald

I have been busy the past few days, so I just read this topic. After reading several things that IMO were incorrect or misleading statements, I got to thinking maybe I need to go back and try to learn some more about how to set up a bow and how to tune a bow. I just spent ~ 2 hours watching vidoes and reading stuff on bow tuning. Again, IMO, there is some false and misleading stuff on the Internet.

I have not been shooting a bow 30 years like Jude, only for 28 years....plus a few more, if you count my shooting as a kid.

This statement was probably not true 20+ years ago....due to poor quality of some broadheads made back then. Today, IMO this is a true statement:
Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow.

If your bow is set up correctly and you have the correct arrow for the bow .....the arrow will fly smooth and true to the target. Peroid.....end of statement. It does not matter if you have a field tip, fixed broadhead or mechanical attached to the arrow. If you do not agree.....fine, we will just disagree.

I am a little confused about the second highlighted statement above....."broadhead tuning". If you adjust your rest or anyother part of the bow to make the broadhead arrow hit the bulls eye......then if you shoot a field tip arrow it will then hit at a different spot. If this is the case, does that not tell you there is something "WRONG" with the setup of the bow?

If everything is setup properly, the only time a broadhead will fly a little different from a field tip is when there is a fairly strong wind blowing. When the wind is blowing a fixed broadhead arrow sometime gets blown or "floats" more that a field tip. This is because the fixed broadhead has more surface area to catch the wind.

I have always used paper tunning to check how my bow is shooting the arrows. If the arrow cuts the paper with what is called a "bullet hole".....you are very close to perfect. But because you shoot a bullet hole at one distance it does not mean you are finished. You need to check the paper tune holes at several distances [say 3, 6 and 10 yards] because the arrow flight might not be stabalized at all distances.

Walk back tuning is another way to check if your arrow is flying properly. But paper tuning will also show you if the arrow is flying off to the side. Both paper tuning and "walk back tuning" rely on the shooter to use proper shooting technique. I always shoot 2 or 3 arrows to check what the paper tears looks like before making any adjustment to the bow.

But before doing any paper tunning shooting, there are things to check on the bow setup. Are the cam timing correct? Are the cams straight and working properly? Is the "Till" measurment the same for each bow limb? Also, need to check to see if your broadheads/incerts pass the spin test.

So in closing......why settle for your bow shooting broadheads almost the same as field tips.

That is why I mentioned walk back tuning. Generally speaking, if you got your rest set up after walk back tuning, you rarely have to do any tuning after you put your broadheads on. I was assuming the cams were tuned, the nock point was correct, and the inserts were square. I didn't intend on getting into all that.