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  #1  
Old 12-31-2011, 05:38 PM
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Natural Light Kid Natural Light Kid is offline
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Default Jack plate on a tunnel?

I know I'm opening pandora's box, but what are some thoughts and theories on using a jack plate with a tunnel hull. I am speaking of the 18'-20' variety with a 40 HP. I had a 17' tunnel with a 25 HP with no jack plate that I ran for years. Like to hear pros and cons with and without.
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2011, 06:04 PM
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In JB, we run a 18ft vented tunnel with jackplate that I bought from you, and a 25 tahustu.

I've seen/ran that boat in some shallow grassy stuff. if you get your weight distributed out, it hops up in shallow stuff.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntin fool View Post
In JB, we run a 18ft vented tunnel with jackplate that I bought from you, and a 25 tahustu.

I've seen/ran that boat in some shallow grassy stuff. if you get your weight distributed out, it hops up in shallow stuff.
Have you ever run the same rig without he jack plate?
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  #4  
Old 12-31-2011, 06:11 PM
scott craft scott craft is offline
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Here's a good explanation from someone that's pretty good with this stuff:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995 US1 View Post
First, flatbottoms and marsh tunnels are two totally unrelated animals. I have an 1844 AlWeld Tunnel. The transom is 20" tall from the flat bottom to the top of the transom. My motor is mounted 1 1/2" above the top of the transom, for a total motor height of 21 !/2'. My motoor is a short shaft, 15" shaft.
Now the reason why a jackplate is nearly useless on a tunnel. The tunnel is shaped in a way to funnel water to the prop right at the back of the transom. The minute the water in the tunnel under the hull clears the transom, it goes to the sides, down, up, all directions. Because the area behind the transom is a low pressure area, compared to the boat bottom or the tunnel, there is nothing to direct a water flow to the prop. The further behind the transom you move, the more the water is spread out. Think of the tunnel as a water hose, the further from the nozzle, the more spread out the stream becomes. If you keep the prop right behind the tunnel exit, that is the area of least dispersment, the prop bites better. With my motor sitting 21 1/2" above the bottom of the boat, the hull can hit something and the motor never touches it. Why go any higher or further back? Hope this makes sense.
D
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  #5  
Old 12-31-2011, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott craft View Post
Here's a good explanation from someone that's pretty good with this stuff:
I agree. I just wanted to hear it from someone else.
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2011, 06:25 PM
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If you run in a lot of grass or lillies, get a skag in the tunnel also.
I ran a 20' X 36" with a tunnel and jack plate with a 40 Merc.
I caught less weeds on the foot with the jack plate, but got a
skag due to where I hunted gators and never had issues with grass
again.
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  #7  
Old 01-01-2012, 02:24 PM
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Montauk17 Montauk17 is offline
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Tunnel hulls work best without a jack plate. The closer the prop is to the tunnel the better. It will run with a jack plate too but you will have to add more cup than normal to the prop and will loose bite more in turns. If you do use a jack plate get one with no more than 4" of setback.
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  #8  
Old 01-03-2012, 05:07 PM
offshore ag offshore ag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott craft View Post
Here's a good explanation from someone that's pretty good with this stuff:

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995 US1
First, flatbottoms and marsh tunnels are two totally unrelated animals. I have an 1844 AlWeld Tunnel. The transom is 20" tall from the flat bottom to the top of the transom. My motor is mounted 1 1/2" above the top of the transom, for a total motor height of 21 !/2'. My motoor is a short shaft, 15" shaft.
Now the reason why a jackplate is nearly useless on a tunnel. The tunnel is shaped in a way to funnel water to the prop right at the back of the transom. The minute the water in the tunnel under the hull clears the transom, it goes to the sides, down, up, all directions. Because the area behind the transom is a low pressure area, compared to the boat bottom or the tunnel, there is nothing to direct a water flow to the prop. The further behind the transom you move, the more the water is spread out. Think of the tunnel as a water hose, the further from the nozzle, the more spread out the stream becomes. If you keep the prop right behind the tunnel exit, that is the area of least dispersment, the prop bites better. With my motor sitting 21 1/2" above the bottom of the boat, the hull can hit something and the motor never touches it. Why go any higher or further back? Hope this makes sense.
D
a good after market cavitation plate and the right prop can solve this problem.

http://www.boatrightmarine.com/cuerp...ies&modelid=55
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:29 AM
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davidkyle323 davidkyle323 is offline
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problem solved tunnel extension and I can run my cmc trim with set back
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File Type: jpg 105.jpg (78.8 KB, 182 views)
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2012, 02:21 PM
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i ran a 15foot tunnel with a 40hp, picked up 2-3mph with a cmc jackplate and another 2-3mph once i got the prop cupped properly,
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