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  #1  
Old 12-14-2011, 11:13 AM
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Raymond Raymond is offline
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Default Dog Training Tip

Currently I have 3 puppies from the same litter in for training, 1 is mine and the other 2 are my clients. This tip is the result of some issues I am dealing with on the 2 client dogs.

Both client dogs have vocalization issues (barking/growling) at bumpers,ducks,or when overly excited. Some of this behavior has been caused by trying to steady them very early (throwing a toy and holding them back). Some of it has been caused by the clients allowing their dogs to bark without correction because they thought is was cute. In both instances, it will and has become a HABIT that you or your trainer could have a hard time correcting. Good repetition becomes a good habit just as bad repetition becomes a bad habit and everyone knows how hard bad habits are to break.

This is why I let the dog tell me when it is time to steady and it is also done in stages as to not create excitement issues which lead to vocalization at the line and eventually the blind.

Just My 2 Cents
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:26 AM
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Good tip raymond. My dog rarely barks. Only time he really barks is when he get's excited when I crank up the 4-wheela. I can get him to jump on the back rack when it is off, but when I crank it up, he jumps off. Gonna take some time working with him.
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2011, 01:15 PM
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Great tip! This for sure was one of my "holes".
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2011, 02:03 PM
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I have a noise issue with my dog. It can get under your skin from time to time.
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond View Post
Currently I have 3 puppies from the same litter in for training, 1 is mine and the other 2 are my clients. This tip is the result of some issues I am dealing with on the 2 client dogs.

Both client dogs have vocalization issues (barking/growling) at bumpers,ducks,or when overly excited. Some of this behavior has been caused by trying to steady them very early (throwing a toy and holding them back). Some of it has been caused by the clients allowing their dogs to bark without correction because they thought is was cute. In both instances, it will and has become a HABIT that you or your trainer could have a hard time correcting. Good repetition becomes a good habit just as bad repetition becomes a bad habit and everyone knows how hard bad habits are to break.

This is why I let the dog tell me when it is time to steady and it is also done in stages as to not create excitement issues which lead to vocalization at the line and eventually the blind.

Just My 2 Cents
quit posting tips and find me a pup oh dog whisperer
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
Good tip raymond. My dog rarely barks. Only time he really barks is when he get's excited when I crank up the 4-wheela. I can get him to jump on the back rack when it is off, but when I crank it up, he jumps off. Gonna take some time working with him.
Dogs are suppose to follow behind the 4 wheeler. Why you want em on the back rack?
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:13 AM
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Thats a very valuable 2 cents Ray!! Training one my self and we are in stages...don't want to overload the lil guy!!! Slow and steady wins the race!!
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:56 AM
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Thought barking was good???!!! let's you know where they are when chasing deer.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:35 PM
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Any tips on how to stop a 4 yr old rat/Boston terrier mix from barking nonstop every time she goes in the back yard? It drives me nuts a d I'm sure the neighbors appreciate it. She's barking at the neighbor dog in the yard adjacent to us.
I've use the automatic shocking bark collar with some success but I was ondering if there might be a better way that doesn't involve replacing batteries.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:55 PM
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Bmac, spend the money and get the best (Tri Tronics). The petsmart collars are junk and don't give enough correction to stop the problem.
Also suggest strapping it on tight enough to work (prongs must be tight to skin for them to feel the burn). These use a cr2 lithium battery and I have had some last for 6 months with plenty of juice. 5 levels allow you to find just the right one without making the dog $hit when it goes off. Makes my nights a whole lot mo peaceful knowing everyone is quiet.

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Old 12-15-2011, 12:58 PM
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Raymond, the links don't work.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feesherman View Post
Dogs are suppose to follow behind the 4 wheeler. Why you want em on the back rack?

no reason, guess i was spoiled when i had a black lab that was trained to jump on the 4-wheeler while in motion. I want my chocolate lab to do the same thing. He dont like the vibration.
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2011, 01:01 PM
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Tri tronics bark collar works well. IMO
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:06 PM
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Thanks I'll look into one
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond View Post
Bmac, spend the money and get the best (Tri Tronics). The petsmart collars are junk and don't give enough correction to stop the problem.
Also suggest strapping it on tight enough to work (prongs must be tight to skin for them to feel the burn). These use a cr2 lithium battery and I have had some last for 6 months with plenty of juice. 5 levels allow you to find just the right one without making the dog $hit when it goes off. Makes my nights a whole lot mo peaceful knowing everyone is quiet.

Hey Raymond....I know every dog is different but, would you suggest collar conditioning an easy to handle lab....and if so what age would you start?? Kinda wondering the pros and cons.....
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:00 PM
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Collar condition every dog that you plan on using a ecollar on, very important.
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:35 PM
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Define easy to handle?
Every dog i put my hands on gets collar conditioned. You can't push buttons and them respond correctly without teaching them what the buttons mean. Training is a progression from simple task to more difficult task and continues throughout the dogs life.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond View Post
Define easy to handle?
Every dog i put my hands on gets collar conditioned. You can't push buttons and them respond correctly without teaching them what the buttons mean. Training is a progression from simple task to more difficult task and continues throughout the dogs life.
Easy to handle....5mo lil fire cracker w/ a laid back demeanor...not too stubborn....very smart....does what most 1year olds get to do (hunt regularly)....whistle started(basics,sit,come) and working on some over casting....not forced fetched, don't think i'll need to from where I see he's @ now.....we gotta long way to go...he wont see an ecollar this season for sure....the fine tuning will happen this spring and fall....jus wanted some input on pros and cons of the collar
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  #19  
Old 12-16-2011, 08:03 AM
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I'm no Raymond but I don't see a con about using an Ecollar in a correct way. With that being said, you can't burn a dog on something when he doesnt know what he is doing wrong. Oh and the key is for stimulation not for the dog to cut a flip. Imo Ive liked the ability to use it incase I needed to call him off and he didnt wanna.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Braquet View Post
I'm no Raymond but I don't see a con about using an Ecollar in a correct way. With that being said, you can't burn a dog on something when he doesnt know what he is doing wrong. Oh and the key is for stimulation not for the dog to cut a flip. Imo Ive liked the ability to use it incase I needed to call him off and he didnt wanna.
You right about the collar and not shocking too hard...guy I was hunting with in 1st split did it too high and that dog didn't leave the blind the rest of the hunt.
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