Calling all hookers
 

Who here runs a hook on there aluminum hull and what benefits have you gained? I have a slight bow bounce when I trim enough to peak my rpm's. Cavitation plate is currently about 1.5" above bottom. This is the only instructions I've found.Attachment 101362Attachment 101363

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Never heard of someone wanting to have hooks in there hull


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Cajunchristian does this routinely but I haven't heard anything from the pm I sent him. I know he has done several for people on here.

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I'm not doubting your approach, and I'm sure there's a good answer but why not trim tabs?

From what CC says trim tabs will lose speed where as hooking gains. That's why I'd like to hear some more detailed info from the guys on here. There are old threads pertaining to this but now I have questions.

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Ok I gotchya, tabs would create too much drag for the speed your looking for.

Have you thought about something like Teflon strips glued to the hull, something 1/4" or less. File the Teflon strips to the desired thickness, and it's removable. May not work at all, but Its a thought.

That is a pretty good idea! Well, sounds good anyway. [emoji16]

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And this isn't that my boat runs bad. I just think it can do a little better. Running mid 40's on a 1652 with a 40/60 merc. Just that little bounce when I start trimming too much.

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Lol, yea Google gave me that one. Apparently it's somewhat common practice on fiberglass barefoot boats.

My tunnel hull has fixed 4" trim tabs that I "hooked". I can only tell the difference when I'm running real light but it makes the boat ride higher on the water, and 0 proposing.

Just not sure how to fasten trim tabs. Really don't want to weld on my boat.Attachment 101401

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Did you put the poling deck on there? I like it


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Bought it like that out of Houma. I took it off.

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Just got off the the with CC. Super nice guy and very informative. Here's what I've learned. Seems when I read he earlier comments on hooking boats, I got out of it what I wanted and not what he intended lol. They hook hulls to stop porpoising basically at a neutral trim. He explained that your maximum speed is obtained when the cavitation plate is parallel with the bottom of the hull. Anything more or less you're waisting HP driving the nose up or down instead of forward. Makes sense. Many thanks to Danny for taking a few minutes to explain this.

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I never really thought about positive trim adding drag, but I'm assuming that's what CC means. Makes sense.

So, what's the next step if anything?
What's your speed right now, I remember you were doing pretty good?
I understand your only trying to gain few mph max and basically maximizing your setup.

He told me to see if the hull had a hook. If so, take it out. If it doesn't, my next step will be raising motor. I'm already about 1.5" above with 6" set back. All in all, the boat runs great and I could just leave it be. This time of year is hard on me as I don't fish much but want to be on the water so I start tinkering lol.

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What I said was, a motor performs at 100% efficiency with a trim angle of 3 degrees positive. You have, lets say, 50 horsepower. ALL work requires horsepower. Lifting the bow of your boat is work, pushing your boat forward is work. How many horsepower will you use to lift the bow and how many to push it forward, REMEMBER you only have 50. When you trim beyond 3 degrees, you are using more and more horsepower to lift the bow. The more you use to lift the bow, the less you have to push the boat forward.
Take a prop in your hands and hold it parallel to the ground. Now tilt it as though you are trimming the motor out. The angle of attack of the blades are taking less bite the more you trim out, that's why the rpm's go up as you trim out. As you trim out, the thrust is going up instead of forward. Sure, a rooster tail is neat, but it is a colossal waste of horsepower.
If you can trim your motor to the end of the trim's lift, you are wasting horsepower. Run a straight edge from the bottom of your hull to the cav plate on the motor. Make them parallel, not EVEN, height wise, parallel. Tap the trim up once, that is close to 3 degrees positive. If you are running negative trim or excess positive trim, the setup is not right. First, shift weight to try to get it to run WOT at 3 degrees positive without bouncing. If you can't trim 3 degrees, you may need trim tabs or a slight hook. I have never hooked a hull more than 3/16ths of an inch. A little goes a long way. There are many ways to solve different problems, not "one fixes all".

if your not happy with Mid 40's with a 40/60 go buy a bigger motor

Good is the enemy of great!
D

Great explanation Dan.

On my boat....16' Alumacraft with 40 hp Tahatsu, when I trim up to get max speed [36 mph @ 5800 rpm] I sometimes start to bounce and have to come down just a hair.

I will have to look to see what angle the motor is at and see if any shift in weight would increase speed.

I like that quote, good stuff.

Thanks for explaining everything, defiantly helps simplify the process.