trolling motor help
 

I got a 36 volt motor guide hooked it up about 8 months ago it came on sat while boat was getting fixed hooked back up yesterday and it will not work. I got 37.8 volts at the head ( inside under cover ) but nothing will happen at the motor part. Could it have gone bad from sitting. Help dont want to have to buy a new one.

Thanks Jim

check the reset button (breaker)

what he said.........bay slayer we need to nominate you site mechanic

Buy a Minn Kota...everybody should know how to fix them by now. :p

Lol

Where is the reset button at

on yer wires going to the batteries prolly very close to the batery its a breaker kind of like a gfi in yer house

I ran new wires myself and i just put a fuse in line I am getting 38 volt to the trolling motor head

Does the motor make a humming sound when you try to turn it on??

With the power off!! Does the prop turn freely and smoothly, with just a little drag? or does it feel like grinding?

no humming and yes the props spins one way freely and the other way there is a little drag no grinding

Ok......then depending on how comfortable you are with taking it apart. You need to check the contacts of your on/off switch, also test the bypass and micro switches. If you do not know how to test this, then you may want to bring it to the shop. If you do decide to test all that and they are all good then the control board is probably your issue. But since it has set up for a while, I am more likely to lean toward a movable part like a switch, not something solid state like the control board. Hope this helps you out.

Are you talking about the switch On/off switch located on the bottom took head apart getting 37.8 volts going to the shaft wires and the little black switch on the back of the handle inside head there is on wire that shows 12 volts when you turn the handle it moves a little but stay around 12. The other little wire shows like 4 volts then will go up to 12 when you turn the handle in forward and back to 4 when you go to neutral and the same in reverse but From what i can remember it dosent go as high. It must be over my head

Thanks for all the help so far we are getting closer

ok the steady 12v wire is the power supply for the control board. That checks good!! The voltages you are seeing (4-12) are input voltages to the control board. The control board takes in the input voltages (4 being the slowest and 12 being the fastest) and then turns around and controls the "high" voltage going to the shaft motor. So if you are seeing a change in voltage then you are good up to that point!! So now you need to check the output voltage to the shaft motor. I would test in on the high setting and make sure you are getting your full 36 volts. If you are getting the proper voltage to your shaft motor, then you probably have bad magnets (or brushes, depending on how old the T/M is). Let me know what you find.

How do I check it at the shaft motor I got 38 volts going down the shaft or do
I need to check it on the motor itself. and if that where I need to check how the hell do I do that cant get the prop off must be a special way to open it.

Yes, unfortunately you have to check the voltage at the motor. You need a prop wrench to get the prop off. If you decide to get inside there yourself and you find water in there.............the motor will be shot since it sat in it so long.

Ok took apart motor there is a green circuit boad on the front of motor with a red and black wire coming from shaft 38 volts there ckecked also the two little magnets (i guess) both of them had 38 volts on them two. Now no water or rust in the motor on magnets but the was a little corrosion rust colored on the green board around where the red wire ties in the board also aroun the black wire too. Let me know if you need anything else thanks bayslayer for your help

If you have access to a soldering iron............I would try to remove the corrosion and re-solder those connection. You may try to turn the motor a bunch of time by hand in case there is corrosion between the armature and coils