Broadheads

[Chem Man]

I have heard good reports from Slick Tricks myself but just like mechanical. Never have to adjust sights. When you hunt out of state alot you run the risk of having to buy heads on the road and I perfer not to start sighting and tuning my bow if I can not find the head I shoot. Almost never will u find a mechanical that does not shoot like a field point.

[Feesherman]

Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow. That is first and foremost. To properly broad head tune your bow you must learn what to do. Your field points are hittin the bull every time. You screw on your fixed heads and they don't hit the bull. To broadhead tune you move your rest. Put on your broad heads, shoot a bunch of em and get a good idea where they are going. Then, adjust your rest to get your field points flying to the same spot the broad heads were flying. Now that your field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot, THEN and only then do you move your sights back to the bullseye. Now you have tuned your bow and your field points and broadheads should now be on the bullseye!


Mechanical broadheads were invented for people who don't know how or won't learn how to tune their bows. On that note, there are a bunch of outfitters that will not allow you to shoot mechanicals. Don't even look for an elk hunting outfit that will allow you to shoot mechanicals!

Also, look up walk back tuning to learn how to properly tune your rest to get center shot.

[msu-tfrancois]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow. That is first and foremost. To properly broad head tune your bow you must learn what to do. Your field points are hittin the bull every time. You screw on your fixed heads and they don't hit the bull. To broadhead tune you move your rest. Put on your broad heads, shoot a bunch of em and get a good idea where they are going. Then, adjust your rest to get your field points flying to the same spot the broad heads were flying. Now that your field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot, THEN and only then do you move your sights back to the bullseye. Now you have tuned your bow and your field points and broadheads should now be on the bullseye!


Mechanical broadheads were invented for people who don't know how or won't learn how to tune their bows. On that note, there are a bunch of outfitters that will not allow you to shoot mechanicals. Don't even look for an elk hunting outfit that will allow you to shoot mechanicals!

Also, look up walk back tuning to learn how to properly tune your rest to get center shot.

Come on now dude are u kidding me....thas a pretty bold statement there...

[jchief]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow. That is first and foremost. To properly broad head tune your bow you must learn what to do. Your field points are hittin the bull every time. You screw on your fixed heads and they don't hit the bull. To broadhead tune you move your rest. Put on your broad heads, shoot a bunch of em and get a good idea where they are going. Then, adjust your rest to get your field points flying to the same spot the broad heads were flying. Now that your field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot, THEN and only then do you move your sights back to the bullseye. Now you have tuned your bow and your field points and broadheads should now be on the bullseye!


Mechanical broadheads were invented for people who don't know how or won't learn how to tune their bows. On that note, there are a bunch of outfitters that will not allow you to shoot mechanicals. Don't even look for an elk hunting outfit that will allow you to shoot mechanicals!

Also, look up walk back tuning to learn how to properly tune your rest to get center shot.

I call BS. Been bow hunting about 30 years. Know many hunters that can paper tune a bow but like how the mechanicals work.

Everyone has a prefernce. If not, we would all be shooting the same thing.

[msu-tfrancois]

Originally Posted by jchief

I call BS. Been bow hunting about 30 years. Know many hunters that can paper tune a bow but like how the mechanicals work.

Everyone has a prefernce. If not, we would all be shooting the same thing.

Very well said man...Sound like ol boy was tryin to toot his own horn a lil there

[Feesherman]

Originally Posted by msu-tfrancois

Very well said man...Sound like ol boy was tryin to toot his own horn a lil there

I didn't say that only newbies use them. I said why they were invented. Are you going to say that every advertisement doesn't say this phrase, "Flys like field points"? Do some research. Learn a thing or two. And then figure out why so many outfitters will not allow you to use them!

[evidrine]

Originally Posted by msu-tfrancois

Very well said man...Sound like ol boy was tryin to toot his own horn a lil there

Sounds kinda like "W" on the topic of live bait!!!!

[msu-tfrancois]

Originally Posted by evidrine

Sounds kinda like "W" on the topic of live bait!!!!

you can only use mechanicals in post rut being that thats one of the hardest times to shoot a buck

[Feesherman]

Originally Posted by jchief

I call BS. Been bow hunting about 30 years. Know many hunters that can paper tune a bow but like how the mechanicals work.

Everyone has a prefernce. If not, we would all be shooting the same thing.

What does paper tune get you? You still have to broad head tune once you take the field tips off and put your broad heads on!

[Gerald]

Originally Posted by Feesherman

Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow. That is first and foremost. To properly broad head tune your bow you must learn what to do. Your field points are hittin the bull every time. You screw on your fixed heads and they don't hit the bull. To broadhead tune you move your rest. Put on your broad heads, shoot a bunch of em and get a good idea where they are going. Then, adjust your rest to get your field points flying to the same spot the broad heads were flying. Now that your field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot, THEN and only then do you move your sights back to the bullseye. Now you have tuned your bow and your field points and broadheads should now be on the bullseye!


Mechanical broadheads were invented for people who don't know how or won't learn how to tune their bows. On that note, there are a bunch of outfitters that will not allow you to shoot mechanicals. Don't even look for an elk hunting outfit that will allow you to shoot mechanicals!

Also, look up walk back tuning to learn how to properly tune your rest to get center shot.

I have been busy the past few days, so I just read this topic. After reading several things that IMO were incorrect or misleading statements, I got to thinking maybe I need to go back and try to learn some more about how to set up a bow and how to tune a bow. I just spent ~ 2 hours watching vidoes and reading stuff on bow tuning. Again, IMO, there is some false and misleading stuff on the Internet.

I have not been shooting a bow 30 years like Jude, only for 28 years....plus a few more, if you count my shooting as a kid.

This statement was probably not true 20+ years ago....due to poor quality of some broadheads made back then. Today, IMO this is a true statement:
Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow.

If your bow is set up correctly and you have the correct arrow for the bow .....the arrow will fly smooth and true to the target. Peroid.....end of statement. It does not matter if you have a field tip, fixed broadhead or mechanical attached to the arrow. If you do not agree.....fine, we will just disagree.

I am a little confused about the second highlighted statement above....."broadhead tuning". If you adjust your rest or anyother part of the bow to make the broadhead arrow hit the bulls eye......then if you shoot a field tip arrow it will then hit at a different spot. If this is the case, does that not tell you there is something "WRONG" with the setup of the bow?

If everything is setup properly, the only time a broadhead will fly a little different from a field tip is when there is a fairly strong wind blowing. When the wind is blowing a fixed broadhead arrow sometime gets blown or "floats" more that a field tip. This is because the fixed broadhead has more surface area to catch the wind.

I have always used paper tunning to check how my bow is shooting the arrows. If the arrow cuts the paper with what is called a "bullet hole".....you are very close to perfect. But because you shoot a bullet hole at one distance it does not mean you are finished. You need to check the paper tune holes at several distances [say 3, 6 and 10 yards] because the arrow flight might not be stabalized at all distances.

Walk back tuning is another way to check if your arrow is flying properly. But paper tuning will also show you if the arrow is flying off to the side. Both paper tuning and "walk back tuning" rely on the shooter to use proper shooting technique. I always shoot 2 or 3 arrows to check what the paper tears looks like before making any adjustment to the bow.

But before doing any paper tunning shooting, there are things to check on the bow setup. Are the cam timing correct? Are the cams straight and working properly? Is the "Till" measurment the same for each bow limb? Also, need to check to see if your broadheads/incerts pass the spin test.

So in closing......why settle for your bow shooting broadheads almost the same as field tips.

[Feesherman]

Originally Posted by Gerald

I have been busy the past few days, so I just read this topic. After reading several things that IMO were incorrect or misleading statements, I got to thinking maybe I need to go back and try to learn some more about how to set up a bow and how to tune a bow. I just spent ~ 2 hours watching vidoes and reading stuff on bow tuning. Again, IMO, there is some false and misleading stuff on the Internet.

I have not been shooting a bow 30 years like Jude, only for 28 years....plus a few more, if you count my shooting as a kid.

This statement was probably not true 20+ years ago....due to poor quality of some broadheads made back then. Today, IMO this is a true statement:
Any fixed head will fly with your field tips if you learn to tune your bow.

If your bow is set up correctly and you have the correct arrow for the bow .....the arrow will fly smooth and true to the target. Peroid.....end of statement. It does not matter if you have a field tip, fixed broadhead or mechanical attached to the arrow. If you do not agree.....fine, we will just disagree.

I am a little confused about the second highlighted statement above....."broadhead tuning". If you adjust your rest or anyother part of the bow to make the broadhead arrow hit the bulls eye......then if you shoot a field tip arrow it will then hit at a different spot. If this is the case, does that not tell you there is something "WRONG" with the setup of the bow?

If everything is setup properly, the only time a broadhead will fly a little different from a field tip is when there is a fairly strong wind blowing. When the wind is blowing a fixed broadhead arrow sometime gets blown or "floats" more that a field tip. This is because the fixed broadhead has more surface area to catch the wind.

I have always used paper tunning to check how my bow is shooting the arrows. If the arrow cuts the paper with what is called a "bullet hole".....you are very close to perfect. But because you shoot a bullet hole at one distance it does not mean you are finished. You need to check the paper tune holes at several distances [say 3, 6 and 10 yards] because the arrow flight might not be stabalized at all distances.

Walk back tuning is another way to check if your arrow is flying properly. But paper tuning will also show you if the arrow is flying off to the side. Both paper tuning and "walk back tuning" rely on the shooter to use proper shooting technique. I always shoot 2 or 3 arrows to check what the paper tears looks like before making any adjustment to the bow.

But before doing any paper tunning shooting, there are things to check on the bow setup. Are the cam timing correct? Are the cams straight and working properly? Is the "Till" measurment the same for each bow limb? Also, need to check to see if your broadheads/incerts pass the spin test.

So in closing......why settle for your bow shooting broadheads almost the same as field tips.

That is why I mentioned walk back tuning. Generally speaking, if you got your rest set up after walk back tuning, you rarely have to do any tuning after you put your broadheads on. I was assuming the cams were tuned, the nock point was correct, and the inserts were square. I didn't intend on getting into all that.