(archery) fav broadhead and why?

[Gerald]

Originally Posted by Crawl79

I keep a couple grim reapers in my quiver for hunting in water but I am a big fan of the Ramcat broadhead.

I shoot 100grain ramcats (1 3/8") but I switch out the 100 grain blades for the 125 grain blades (1 1/2") cut and fly's like a field point. Best part is no to very little broadhead tuning.

In the last 3 years have killed over 10 deer, 1 big boar and 1 bobcat with these broadheads. I had one doe this year that I gut shot that went a few hundred yards but let her sit about 6 hours and found her sitting in her bed too weak to get up. The rest have fell within 100 yards and most within sight.

If I were to try anything new would be the slick tricks. I just like a fixed blade although the mechanicals do some SERIOUS damage even on the some marginal shot placement.

Year before last I shot a bobcat that was facing me in the front shoulder with a ramcat. The broadhead sliced him all the way down the body. It was pretty messy.

Infraction......this term is not allow.....IMO.

[Crawl79]

Originally Posted by Gerald

Infraction......this term is not allow.....IMO.

Won't happen again. Main reason why I shoot these fixed broad heads.

[duckman1911]

Originally Posted by Crawl79

Won't happen again. Main reason why I shoot these fixed broad heads.

Haha I tune all of my broadheads. Can't say if it makes a difference because I do it before they are ever shot the first time.

[Reggoh]

Originally Posted by duckman1911

Haha I tune all of my broadheads. Can't say if it makes a difference because I do it before they are ever shot the first time.

I know how to tune my bow for shooting broadheads... how do you actually "tune" the broadhead before it is shot? I don't understand what you guys are talking about.

Mechanicals are 1 piece broadheads... most fixed blades are 1 piece or you put the blades in only 1 way...

There is nothing to "change" or "tune" on a broadhead that I'm aware of... Have I been missing something for the past 9 years??

[Crawl79]

Originally Posted by Reggoh

I know how to tune my bow for shooting broadheads... how do you actually "tune" the broadhead before it is shot? I don't understand what you guys are talking about.

Mechanicals are 1 piece broadheads... most fixed blades are 1 piece or you put the blades in only 1 way...

There is nothing to "change" or "tune" on a broadhead that I'm aware of... Have I been missing something for the past 9 years??

We are going to be in trouble for talking about broad head tuning.

Broadhead tuning a bow and tuning a broadhead is different.

Broadhead tuning is only really confirming that broadhead is straight and perfectly aligned on the shaft and insuring you have the correct fletching to give arrow stabilization without having too much fletching with will affect performance.

I will stay away from talking about broadhead tuning a bow but plenty of help on that from the net or local bow shop.

[Reggoh]

Originally Posted by Crawl79

We are going to be in trouble for talking about broad head tuning.

Not sure what this is about... but if someone is going to get in internet trouble for discussing a topic on a public forum maybe we are on the wrong forum.

[Crawl79]

Originally Posted by Reggoh

Not sure what this is about... but if someone is going to get in internet trouble for discussing a topic on a public forum maybe we are on the wrong forum.

Originally Posted by Gerald

Infraction......this term is not allow.....IMO.

Someone mentioned they would like an archery sub-forum as long as no one brought up the topic broadhead tuning.

I don't have a problem with it. I always check my own equipment and normally tune my own bow.

[duckman1911]

Originally Posted by Reggoh

I know how to tune my bow for shooting broadheads... how do you actually "tune" the broadhead before it is shot? I don't understand what you guys are talking about.

Mechanicals are 1 piece broadheads... most fixed blades are 1 piece or you put the blades in only 1 way...

There is nothing to "change" or "tune" on a broadhead that I'm aware of... Have I been missing something for the past 9 years??

I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.

[Reggoh]

Originally Posted by duckman1911

I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.

I just shoot regular out of the box untunable broadheads... haha... As long as they keep passing through the deer I'll just keep shooting them. I do spin test them to make sure they are seated properly in the arrow but I don't think that is considered "tuning"... I've never had one that was wobbly.

[duckman1911]

Originally Posted by Reggoh

I just shoot regular out of the box untunable broadheads... haha... As long as they keep passing through the deer I'll just keep shooting them. I do spin test them to make sure they are seated properly in the arrow but I don't think that is considered "tuning"... I've never had one that was wobbly.

If it ain't broke don't fix it bro.

[Crawl79]

Originally Posted by duckman1911

I like a traditional two blade broadhead. Magnus Stinger is my favorite. I like it because it can be tuned. The broadhead itself is glued onto the ferrule (the threaded part) that screws into the arrow. Screw on the broadhead and stand the arrow up on a piece of glass or other non marking surface. Not on the wood table by your chair or your wife will not be happy. Yeah I know. Spin the arrow and watch for wobble at the broadhead. Use a candle flame to heat the broadhead glue and twist it a little on the ferrule then recheck. Do this until it spins as true as a Russian ballerina. After that it's one arrow per bullseye unless you just love relfletching arrows.

Once I make the switch to traditional I will be trying that broadhead. Looking at getting a Bear Grizzly but want to try a few before I buy. Not sure what poundage to get yet.

[duckman1911]

Originally Posted by Crawl79

Once I make the switch to traditional I will be trying that broadhead. Looking at getting a Bear Grizzly but want to try a few before I buy. Not sure what poundage to get yet.

The grizzly is nice. For your first bow I would suggest a take down stlye bow. Whit them you can buy replacement limbs of differnt weights. I have a set of 45, 50&55lb limbs for one of my take downs. Kind of makes an all around bow. Use the lighter limbs for summer time plinking and the heavy ones when its time to get serious. Check out 3riversarchery.com. All they do is traditional archery