First Garden Tips

[Smalls]

Looking to plant my first garden this fall, maybe around August or so based on LSU AgCenter recommendations. Any tips on size, spacing, crops from those of you who have been at it a while? Space isnt a limiting factor. I have a large yard where we are renting and if I can cut down on some of the mowing I have to do, that is a plus.

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[swamp snorkler]

Start now working your soil now, get a soil sample and send it off to LSU that way when its time to plant your mix should be right.

3 rows 20' will feed a family of 4 with some to give away.

[Smalls]

Originally Posted by swamp snorkler

Start now working your soil now, get a soil sample and send it off to LSU that way when its time to plant your mix should be right.

3 rows 20' will feed a family of 4 with some to give away.

I was reading on their website about soil samples, but its not very clear. They reference soil sample kits, but some of their other forms reference getting boxes from the local office. Should I just go by the local office and talk to an extension agent to determine what needs to be done?

[lil bubba]

If you never garden before I would start small...Like Swamp say 3 20 foot rows will get you started....Cabbage , broccoli 18 inches apart...Cauliflower , brussel sprouts 20 inches to 2 feet....4 brussel sprouts will give you enough to put in freezer...Then there's beets , carrots , lettuce , shallots , turnip greens , mustard greens , collards , radish , so on...If you want to cut down on some mowing make a couple hills and plant some long neck cushaw pumpkin , just let them take over till they die off and pick your pumpkins and mow the vines down...

[Gerald]

I marked off where I wanted my garden..... about 15' x 15'. Then I sprayed the grass with week killer. This was done in Late July.

2 weeks later I mowed this area on the lowest setting before tilling just deep enough to pull up the grass runners and roots. When finished, I piled up the dead grass and burned it.

I tilled up the "plot" down about 6 or 8 inches. My soil is very poor, an inch or so top soil and then it is clay. I removing several 5 gallon buckets of "rock" like clay,

Then to build up the soil, I had 6 yards of "flower bed" starter soil delivered. This stuff helped get the soil started.... but was not nearly as good as I hoped because it was mostly sand with wood chips mixed in it. spent about $ 200 on this stuff.

I tilled all this stuff up really good and added about 3/4 sack of 13x13x13.

I grew a fall garden which did much better than I thought it would. In Jan. I had the soil tested by LSU. Results said the "organic" level was good (??).... I would rate it as poor by the looks of the soil. Soil pH was 8.3. I went by the LSU Ag office and was told the pH was good and I did not need to try to lower it. From what I have read, most plants are said to do better when the pH is in the 6.5 to 7.5 range.

For the next several years I enlarged the size to 17' x 22'. This has allowed more spacing between the rows to make it easier to pick stuff.

I have added a bunch of leaves [leaves and pine needles] every years and now feel that the soil is fairly good. Bunch = 4 to 6 inches deep covering the area after cutting up with the lawn mower.

Here are a few pic. Temperature was in the mid 90's so I tried covering some of the small plants to keep the sun from "cooking" the young plants.

[saute86]

I prefer growing a fall and winter garden over a spring garden. You can also grow snow spinach, swiss chard, peas, and sugar snap peas besides what was previously mentioned. If you are interested in a low maintenance garden check this out.
http://www.backtoedenfilm.com/

[swamp snorkler]

[QUOTE=Smalls;796741]I was reading on their website about soil samples, but its not very clear. They reference soil sample kits, but some of their other forms reference getting boxes from the local office. Should I just go by the local office and talk to an extension agent to determine what needs to be done?[/QUOTE]


That would be a good move. County agents get paid to help folks like us and not enough folks use them. The local office has the sample kits, you still need to send that off to get tested. Once your results come in your agent can help you on what fertilizer to use and what varieties would grow well.

[simplepeddler]

Nice gardens around here for sure......

[Smalls]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to be out of town for most of July. Would it be wise to start working everything now, knowing that it will not be maintained for nearly a month?

[lil bubba]

Yep,,,,get it busted up....If you got the place you say haul in as much leaves this fall , winter as you can...nothing like compost...people put them in bags on side the road so all you got to do is throw in back of truck...no need to rake your own....they also make great mulch to hold down the weeds and hold moisture....

[jpcajun]

Go by the County Agents Office.... they have kits available. I am a county agent for the agcenter; the soil tests are very easy to understand. If for some reason you dont understand them, let me know and i can help you out.

[Smalls]

Originally Posted by jpcajun

Go by the County Agents Office.... they have kits available. I am a county agent for the agcenter; the soil tests are very easy to understand. If for some reason you dont understand them, let me know and i can help you out.

Haha, no worries there. Only reason I dont do it myself is I cant afford the soil test kits that lamotte and others sell. I have the background in soils, deal with soil analysis/sampling all the time through work.

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[jpcajun]

LSU's kit is $16 for 1 sample, $25 for 2 and $35 for 3. It comes in a prepaid box and you just fill up your bag(s) thats provided in the box... and drop it in the mail with a check.

[MathGeek]

I think good drainage, full sun, and a plan for pest control are more important than soil tests.

We've had to battle deer and coons in most places we've lived.

[Smalls]

Originally Posted by MathGeek

I think good drainage, full sun, and a plan for pest control are more important than soil tests.

We've had to battle deer and coons in most places we've lived.

Then I guess you know more about growing crops than NRCS and the LSU AgCenter, considering both put an emphasis on soils. Soils are probably the most important part of the equation. Sandy soils have superb drainage, but are poor for crop production. You could be in full sun, but if it's a clay soil, your production will be poor due to potential nutrient deficiencies and, more importantly, drainage issues. Pest control is of no benefit if you don't have the nutrients to grow healthy plants. If you try to grow rice on a gallion silt loam, chances are, your crop is going to flop. If your soil is very acidic, you are likely to have a lot of problems as well.

All of those are important, but I would say soils are the most important consideration...unless you are going strictly hydroponic...which I'm not.

[jpcajun]

Originally Posted by MathGeek

I think good drainage, full sun, and a plan for pest control are more important than soil tests.

This is just my opinion, but if you don't have good soil... full sun and a pest control plan isnt going to matter much. I do agree that good drainage is very important.