Trolling motor wire connectors?

[Natural Light Kid]

Installing new trolling motor plug. How is everyone connecting the smaller gauge plug wires (10 gauge) to the heavier gauge wires (6 gauge) from the batteries? Is there a such thing as a reducing connector to adapt from one wire size to another?
Thanks

[keakar]

for the boat plug outlet to the battery wires I use this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn...B2-5/100165861

makes a 100% solid bond

[Natural Light Kid]

Originally Posted by keakar

for the boat plug outlet to the battery wires I use this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn...B2-5/100165861

makes a 100% solid bond

Looks great but is it ok to use on stranded wire?

[smooth move]

i don't use a plug---hard wired-----0 problems.

[Natural Light Kid]

Originally Posted by smooth move

i don't use a plug---hard wired-----0 problems.

I understand and agree but this is on a hunting boat where the trolling motor will be removed during duck season. Besides, in your scenario, there is still a splice that needs to me made. How do you do it?

[Gerald]

Originally Posted by keakar

for the boat plug outlet to the battery wires I use this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn...B2-5/100165861

makes a 100% solid bond

That is what I used on my TM. I don't take it off the boat.

On my new boat, the Trolling motor plug lasted about a year before it stopped making connection.

I would install this type clamp, and just take it apart to remove the TM.

[sniper3726]

This is what I used . Mounted it on the front of my trolling motor bracket . Only two screws to remove ... I figured once or twice a year would not be an issue . Trolling motor is mounted on quick release . No plug to worry about

[sniper3726]

If your going to butt splice them , just strip the smaller wire a little longer and fold it over in half this will take up the extra space in a connector that is made to fit the bigger wire .

[keakar]

Originally Posted by Natural Light Kid

Looks great but is it ok to use on stranded wire?

yep it says solid but stranded works fine as well I find it gets a better bond if the smaller wire is on the bottom side and the larger wire is on the top side where the nut is. after connecting I wrap the heck out of it with electrical tape to stop and corrosion as well as cushion it from rattling against something.

I connect the wires to a trolling motor plug socket for connecting to the boat and for the trolling motor side those wires are #8 wire just like the trolling motor plug wires are so I use a heavy duty butt connector to join those together for the plug end that fits the socket and then tape them good. see them here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-Trolling-Motor-Plug-and-Socket-Set-for-Boats-8-Gauge-Wire-/130582523454?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=i tem1e67532e3e&vxp=mtr

[Shawn Braquet]

Originally Posted by keakar

yep it says solid but stranded works fine as well I find it gets a better bond if the smaller wire is on the bottom side and the larger wire is on the top side where the nut is. after connecting I wrap the heck out of it with electrical tape to stop and corrosion as well as cushion it from rattling against something.

I connect the wires to a trolling motor plug socket for connecting to the boat and for the trolling motor side those wires are #8 wire just like the trolling motor plug wires are so I use a heavy duty butt connector to join those together for the plug end that fits the socket and then tape them good. see them here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-Troll...532e3e&vxp=mtr

Try some of this to help with corrosion. Really helps for corrosion due to dissimilar metals and has anti-seize in it in case you need to remove it.http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-NOA...-026/202276208

[swglenn]

When I install the 3 prong trolling motor plugs I drill an 3/16" hole through the side of the socket hole. I also spray Corrosion X on the prongs. Any water that gets into the socket will drain out.

I use butt connectors to connect the wires. Once crimped I fill the butt connectors with Liquid Tape and let it dry then wrap it in electrical tape. I like Shaun's idea of using the NOALOX anti-oxidant compound on the wires before crimping.

[CajunChristian]

I have used these for nearly 20 years. Never had a failure, never lost a connection, still have them on my trolling motor, headlights, everything that plugs in. The metal tips are soldered onto the wire you use and then the tip is inserted into the plastic housing and snaps into place. I use the grey ones, SB50's.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-sb.html
D

[smooth move]

Originally Posted by Natural Light Kid

I understand and agree but this is on a hunting boat where the trolling motor will be removed during duck season. Besides, in your scenario, there is still a splice that needs to me made. How do you do it?

i put heavy duty eyes on the wires and bolt them together, then tape the s*** out of em. when i need to remove motor(seldom) i remove tape and unbolt.
when i used plugs, it was always the plug itself that failed. ALWAYS put a breaker in the line.

[bayouchub]

Y not just use a high quality marine co plug and receptacle? Ive never had issues with them.

[BROWN FIN]

Loose the plug. Solder, shrink rap and cover in 3m 5200. Motor will die before the connection corrodes

[keakar]

Originally Posted by bayouchub

Y not just use a high quality marine co plug and receptacle? Ive never had issues with them.

agreed, Ive never had issues with them either and my boat sits outside uncovered in the weather 24/7 and after 12 years it still worked fine when I sold it.

Originally Posted by BROWN FIN

Loose the plug. Solder, shrink rap and cover in 3m 5200. Motor will die before the connection corrodes

not everyone lives in a secure area or has the ability to put the boat in an enclosed locked garage so most people need to remove the trolling motor and store it inside to prevent theft and only a plug type connection will work for them.