fishing strings

[fishingonewild]

hey guys its been a while since I have posted on here but got a little struggle going on here with my fishing strings I had put on new strings on my reels one is for the bait caster and the other is for the flipping reel and they were rated for 14 and 15 pound test line. one is a trition and the other is a stern. still am having trouble with them specks popping my lines every now and then. I have cut off the lines after catching a few specks to be sure it doesn't wear out the line. also I don't have my drag on to tight either so im asking anyone out there who wud sugguest me to get some good strings that prolly wont break. thanks yall.... by the way I don't want no thick 20 or 30 pounders strings because I want to be able to cast far and not have no string curling up on me.

[biglaketiger]

Power Pro Super 8 Slick or the Fins Wind tamer, I have great success with both and no worries with break offs

[marshrunner757]

I use power pro exclusively

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[sparkyc4]

Power Pro High-vis with Seagur 100% Flourocarbon leader.

[vbay]

Power pro all the way on both

[Marque]

I've brought in 20 lb redfish on 12lb Berkley Big Game although I will say I like the 15 lb test better. I use power pro if I'm fishing for reds but it is not very abrasion resistant. I also have had numerous plugs and heavier swim baits snap off and had to go to 60lb to stop that from happening. Berkley big game is cheap and strong. Best mono for the price.

[lil bubba]

You could tie on a swivel and about a foot or so 20# stren as a leader. I use to use this with fishing a spoon and 20# usually holds up for a day of fishing. Go to 30 and it'll last a couple days. I used 20# on my cork to jighead and about 50 trout wears it pretty good so i went to 30# stren and its good for a couple trips.

[Clampy]

10lb super slick on spinning
20 -30lb on casters
Floro or mono shock leader depending on what bait I'm throwing.

[bayouchub]

Sunline defier armilo 12lb. It is a mono with barely any stretch and the sensitivity of fluorocarbon. The best line i have ever used by far but it is pricey but worth it.

[AubreyLaHaye458]

What I'm using now is 30 lb power pro with a 15 lb seaguar fluoro leader for jigs and 20 lb big game mono for tops.


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[Clampy]

Sunline is good line. The sinper floro is strong as hell and the super natural mono cast and handle like a dream.

[Montauk17]

I used powerpro for years....recently switched to the spiderwire invisibraid. It's not transparent like they claim,more white. Casts and handles like a dream with no guide noise. I use 30lb for baitcaster and 15 for spinning. Floro or mono leader usually 15 or 20lb.

[fishingonewild]

thanks everyone for the different types of strings. this will help me to figure out what could be the problem with my strings popping off. so I will try some of those names brand and use a leader string to see if that could be the case.

[jpeff31787]

Seagur red label 15lb test flourocarbon. Tie a palomar knot. Side note: flourocarbon is not compatible with topwater.

Strong as hell, cast a mile even with weightless flukes. You don't need to tie on leaders plus it's super crazy clear, which is excellent for finicky fish days in clear water. Plus since it sinks, it's more sensitive than mono. Of course not as strong or sensitive as braid, but braid isn't needed for trout.


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[Humdinger]

Suffix Braid all day long!!!!

[michauxii]

Do ya'll think a 3 foot section of 25# Seaguar fluorocarbon from the PowerPro to a big 6" topwater will affect it's action much?

[AubreyLaHaye458]

Originally Posted by michauxii

Do ya'll think a 3 foot section of 25# Seaguar fluorocarbon from the PowerPro to a big 6" topwater will affect it's action much?

If you're after specks and reds, I think it's overkill, my opinion though. I don't think it'll hurt your action that much though.


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[Clampy]

I use 20 but a mono leader for a topwater would be a better option. Mono floats a little better and it doesn't pull the nose of your bait down.

[Dougie]

Fishinggonewild: No offense, but my first guess is the knot is breaking and not the line, (UNLESS, it's old, dried mono line, because its been left outdoors, PARTICULARLY in the sun or elements, it's going to be brittle and chalky and no matter which knot you try, it's going to break.) I speak from experience about doing it wrong for many years before discovering my errors.

NEW LINE:
First of all, brand new line is slick and smooth and not weathered. And, tied with the proper knot, it's not going to break on a hook set. The brand of line, if new, is terribly unimportant if a knot is properly tied, contrary to all the favorites of individuals.


HOW TO TELL IF ITS YOUR KNOT or LINE BREAKING (MONO ONLY):
LINE:
Generally, if it's your line breaking, and not the KNOT, you will have a straight piece of line where it broke. It will look as if you cut the line with snips.

KNOT:
Generally, if it's your knot breaking, you sometimes can detect the slightest bit or curl on the tip of the broken line. The curl is what's left of the part of the knot that failed.

SO HERE'S THE SOLUTION. WEAK KNOTS ARE CAUSED BY HEAT:
The BIGGEST SIN mono line fishermen commit is when tightening the knot. One who just wraps up their knot and pulls it into tightness relatively quickly, (or what we would call 'normal speed') has just cursed themselves with a weak knot.

The fast slippage of the mono creates enough heat to melt the mono inside the knot, causing it to weld together into a 'blob' of mono that still 'looks like a knot'. Such a knot will break with probably half or less of the pound test of the line.

SO, LUBE IT and SLOWLY, TIGHTEN THE MONO KNOT:
If one merely uses saliva or water on the knot as a lubricant when pulling it tight and pulls the knot tight VERY SLOWLY, you're going to have a strong knot. You can even wet the line with your lips as you pull things together most of the way.

After tying a knot this way, if it continues to break easily when pulled hard in your hands, then your line should be replaced. If you encounter this while fishing, strip off about 10 feet of line and discard it, thus exposing better line that has been less affected by the elements.

I have demonstrated to many people that a properly tied knot in brand new SIX OR EIGHT POUND TEST monofilament can cause cuts in the skin of their hands before breaking.

And, after this, is demonstrated, I let them tie the same knot, pulling it together quickly, which of course melts it, and and then watch them pop the knot with relative ease.

Be sure you know how to tie a fishing knot too! The 'fisherman's knot' is probably the most common. There are many varieties of knots out there, and most all will work just fine if done right.

[fishingonewild]

Originally Posted by Dougie

Fishinggonewild: No offense, but my first guess is the knot is breaking and not the line, (UNLESS, it's old, dried mono line, because its been left outdoors, PARTICULARLY in the sun or elements, it's going to be brittle and chalky and no matter which knot you try, it's going to break.) I speak from experience about doing it wrong for many years before discovering my errors.

NEW LINE:
First of all, brand new line is slick and smooth and not weathered. And, tied with the proper knot, it's not going to break on a hook set. The brand of line, if new, is terribly unimportant if a knot is properly tied, contrary to all the favorites of individuals.


HOW TO TELL IF ITS YOUR KNOT or LINE BREAKING (MONO ONLY):
LINE:
Generally, if it's your line breaking, and not the KNOT, you will have a straight piece of line where it broke. It will look as if you cut the line with snips.

KNOT:
Generally, if it's your knot breaking, you sometimes can detect the slightest bit or curl on the tip of the broken line. The curl is what's left of the part of the knot that failed.

SO HERE'S THE SOLUTION. WEAK KNOTS ARE CAUSED BY HEAT:
The BIGGEST SIN mono line fishermen commit is when tightening the knot. One who just wraps up their knot and pulls it into tightness relatively quickly, (or what we would call 'normal speed') has just cursed themselves with a weak knot.

The fast slippage of the mono creates enough heat to melt the mono inside the knot, causing it to weld together into a 'blob' of mono that still 'looks like a knot'. Such a knot will break with probably half or less of the pound test of the line.

SO, LUBE IT and SLOWLY, TIGHTEN THE MONO KNOT:
If one merely uses saliva or water on the knot as a lubricant when pulling it tight and pulls the knot tight VERY SLOWLY, you're going to have a strong knot. You can even wet the line with your lips as you pull things together most of the way.

After tying a knot this way, if it continues to break easily when pulled hard in your hands, then your line should be replaced. If you encounter this while fishing, strip off about 10 feet of line and discard it, thus exposing better line that has been less affected by the elements.

I have demonstrated to many people that a properly tied knot in brand new SIX OR EIGHT POUND TEST monofilament can cause cuts in the skin of their hands before breaking.

And, after this, is demonstrated, I let them tie the same knot, pulling it together quickly, which of course melts it, and and then watch them pop the knot with relative ease.

Be sure you know how to tie a fishing knot too! The 'fisherman's knot' is probably the most common. There are many varieties of knots out there, and most all will work just fine if done right.

dougie no offense taken. and good advice there, but I usually keep my poles in the closet not leaving them outside. I have changed my lines and all but after reading some of the posts on here I will be trying a leader to see if that cud solve the problem. so it will take me time to finally get it done right in time....